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Sorry, never tried that, sometimes you can take a cheap Harbor Freight tool and cut/bend/twist it to get into a difficult location

The splines are tapered, HOPEFULLY only the pitman arm was damaged. What you are seeing is likely the fact the pitman arm/steering shaft is damaged (worn) and the nut/washer would have to push it farther up on the shaft

Yet another beautiful day in S TX. Had to run up to Beeville and pick up some 24 bolt paired rims at Fastenal. 7 rims for under $400 shipped, not a bad deal around here, Thanks Austin!! Not sure what to make of that hair, the mullet of the 21st century I suppose, all party in the back and old...

Again, I would not worry about that seepage, certainly not worth the effort at this time to expose the intake, any time you disturb the intake you risk getting contamination into the intake, and a little seepage is quite normal there, many turbo 6.5L engines have oil residue around that connection.

That is the turbo air outlet, sometimes diesels tent to slobber an oily substance into the intake from idling too much, likely in your case from the excessive blow-by. As long as the exhaust is not smoking blue I would not do anything but monitor it at this time.

Sorry, I was not quoting you....

After you ohm all the glow plugs, should be very low ohms, pierce the wire on one of the glow plug wires with a volt meter, cycle the run switch and see what happens...

DID you get my PM??

After you check the glow plugs put a volt meter on one and see what is happening. Also disconnect your batteries for a while, sometimes that helps. Low battery voltage could also be a problem, make sure they have a fresh charge and are in good condition.

I don't see why not if it will hold.

You need top troubleshoot before spending any more money, ohm out the glow plugs and then put a volt meter on one of them to see if the EESS box is cycling them correctly, when cold they should have power for 8 seconds or so, changes with temp.

This weeks update... I went through the heads and as with the rest of the engine it was obvious they had very little time on them, cleaned them up and lapped the valves and they are good to go. The margins on the valve faces are wider than I would like but I do not have any seat grinding stones...

I would just clean it up and run it for awhile before tearing into the "leaks" some could be caused by too much crankcase pressure.

With the CDR valve in "normal" it pulls a slight vacuum on the crankcase to pull the internal blow-by into the intake to burn the fumes.

It is held by two 1/4" screws and of course the pump screws, why I said to start the pump screws before tightening the 1/4" ones so the holes will align, you should tighten the 1/4" screws before installing the pump.

Did you replace the CDR valve with a fording type? if so are you sure it is installed correctly? The fording valve when switch into fording mode would necessarily create more blow-by as it tries to build crankcase/vent system pressure.

#8 looks like a snow man.

You have to remove the plate behind the pump, (the rod will fall out so be careful) grease the rod and put it back in, replace the plate with new gasket, start the pump bolts through the plate before tightening the 1/4" plate bolts so the pump bolts will line up when you install the pump.

Dang, a year already? I don't think I will have the FAV in any kind of presentable condition by then, maybe 2024!

I use Stanadyne, I figure since they built the pump they would know what it needs.