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Hey guys, I live very near Ft Polk and have plenty of storage space on my property. More than happy to make pickups for people that don't live near so they can pick their items up on weekends. Call 337-401-2470. Will answer phone with "Man O' War Arms" as it is my shop and personal number. My...

Yup, I'm all about the blasting. You can do five hours of sanding in ten seconds with a blaster. Only way to go. Harbor freight has them for under 100 bucks.

Sounds like the cooling system pressurized the transmission. Going to require several drain and fills to get the coolant out of the torque converter. That core tranny you have is still salvageable though. Invest in a media blasting cabinet and some glass bead media. Glass bead cleans steel and...

Your welcome. If you can't get the flywheel surfaced then you can use a right angle air buffer and a red roloc ( kinda like scotch brite) disk to scuff it up and it'll get you by for a while, but you won't get a good lifespan out of it.

Never do a clutch job without replacing everything while you're in there. It ain't worth the few bucks you save. Not biting your head off, I've just learned from experience in the automotive field.

It has sealed roller bearings in it that wear out and put uneven pressure on the fingers, which makes it hard to completely release when the clutch pedal is depressed.

And if you don't surface that flywheel you'll be putting another clutch in soon. Save yourself the trouble and just get it done. No used flywheel is "Just ok" to reuse with a new clutch.

Throwout bearing or pilot bushing. Usually a pilot that does this. If it was the throwout bearing you would hear it making a racket.

Clean it up, put it together, and see it it'll fire up. Not that much to get it apart again if it doesn't.

Cool man. Let us know if we can help. I don't have much to offer at this time, but whatever I can do.

Cool deal man.

Try freeing it up with some penetrating oil first. Most of the time just the pin gets stuck and that's all. If that doesn't work, then maybe pull it off.

I may be able to find you some injector tips. There is a military vehicle parts store on Entrance Road going into Fort Polk that sells surplus parts to the public. Never been in there, have heard they price gouge badly, but most places that sell mv parts do, so no different. I'll try and go by...

Well, it doesn't have to be a Miller I guess.

Better ditch the blocks and fan some spring mounts that extend farther down from the frame. Remember, nearly nothing is bolt on if you want it exactly to your liking. Plate steel and a good millermatic welding machine are a must.

Lucas is one additive I never opt out of using. I use it religiously.

As I stated, the shell is good motor oil, I like it. There probably is something better out there. Seems the O.p. has forgotten about this thread so I'm just going to try the spirax myself. Doubt it's any better than most others.

Yeah, that's about the only way to negate it other than removing the blocks. That's a good way to trash a u-joint by the way.

Hold on, is it possible that the bendix gear may have stuck in the engaged position and turned the starter into a generator of sorts? I've seen it happen about twice in my lifetime on civvy vehicles. Of course, it's normally accompanied by other wiring being rubbed through or shorted.

Well, shell oil is great oil, and the spirax says that it's yellow metal safe. It's also the correct viscosity, so I imagine it works just fine. Ditto on shell for motor oil too. I've even run shell rotella in some of my gas burners and it keeps the inside of the motor clean. Never have used the...