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It is said to hold it in start for a short time. DG

Let's be clear: With the engine running, you have +24 on the DISCONNECTED alternator leads other than the ground one. If yes, bad alt. If no, bad circuit somewhere. That test is import in diagnosing the alternator status. The fat wire should be hot anytime the engine is running. The skinny...

If that shunt is for the panel charge ammeter, an open shunt will not only not allow battery charging, but will ruin the ammeter as well. DDG

It's as bad as some illiterate calling it a "Cummings Diesel". So there! DG

From the hottest part of the country here; I run 140wt gear oil in all axles/gearboxes in my M54A1C. It sure quieted things down a lot, and I've put some 25,000 miles on it since getting it from DRMO. It isn't unusual for the temp to stay over 100 deg 24/7 for a month or so. DG

What oil are you using? DDG

M37's never get the mileage civilian vehicles do. An old-old-old one has 30K on the clock. Dodge technical lit specified an average engine lifespan was 15K. Running at top RPM and lubricants of the day, plus soldiers' foot... DDG

In other words, N. Tesla was right! DDG

In your case, don't think of it as a 3ph panel. Think of it as an easy way to break out each leg, and size up your loads so as to keep them fairly balanced within 30% or so. If you don't already have one, buy a good clamp-on ammeter to make your determinations on each circuit. DDG

You really don't need a transformer. Our house is grid fed with 120/208 3 phase wye. 120V loads (single breakers) are fairly balanced. The 208V single phase loads (dual breakers) like H2O heaters, stove, oven, all perform just fine, even tho they were rated for 240V. Our HVAC system uses...

Sometimes the distance from source to demand dictates the use of a higher voltage to lessen line losses... BTW, nobody in North America (for the last 40 years) has either 110 or 220. It is 120/240. G744

One sweet tractor. You can pull any assortment of trailers now, not stuck with just one bed. Keep 10W oil in the trans, not ATF sez the gurus of the early Hydramatic. Gotta love the race gate shifter and starter handle! The winch essentially having hydraulic drive is a treat, too! That...

The U-joints will 'kick' at full lock turns, as the ratio of in-to-out speed differs. The CV ones don't do that. CV joints are based on the old school types of Bendix, Rezeppa, Spicer, and Tracta. DG

Only in the drag links, not in the steering box. DG

Them be Bendix connectors, not Cannon. DG

Cool deal with the Duramax. There was an engineer/crop harvester (several patents licensed to GM) in Yuma, AZ that repowered 211's with 502 Caddy motors and extended frames to accommodate 20' box beds for field harvesting. Could slog thru muddy fields like nothing else available at the time. DG

To adjust the M37 steering box, jack up the front axle. Turn lock-to-lock, counting the turns. Turn back to numerical center. There is a nut on the backside (engine side) of the box, remove same and star washer. using a stubby flat blade screwdriver, turn the screw in a half turn or so. Run...

Not bad $. I have them on my M54A1. Rear hubs flipped as duals just not for me, looks much better IMO. DG

The nice thing about keeping the 2-pin setup is a regular 120V trouble light with a 24V bulb will plug right in with a little push. Trust me, it will... Very handy! DG

DOT3 brake fluid makes anything rubber much more 'slippery' for such things. I keep a shoe polish tin with some in it to dip trailer plugs before hooking them up. Makes it SO much easier. A drop or two in the backside of the slave recep will make pushing them out/pushing them in a breeze. DG