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I've got a hot water heater and the diverter box (no hoses or defrost ducts) if anybody's interested. It looks like the only wear is from shelf storage. PM me if you are.

The race, being as hard as it is to provide a running surface for balls, needles or rollers will wallow out the mating surface on the spindle or in the hub. The heavier the vehicle, the faster it happens. Results are early and repeat replacement of the bearing assembly(s) due to misalignment...

Will look for the Turbo TM when I get back to the NG. Some of the stuff is available to depot if not to us. If it's on a ETM I can access and post it. If not, somebody smarter than me will have to take it from a hard copy to a .pdf file.

I've seen the kits and there isn't much to them. If you're brother machinist, I think you should breeze right through it. At the NG we just change out the center sections, swap the housings over and put the turbo back on. I think the biggest deal is dis-assembly and re-assembly in a pretty clean...

Hey Baja, good news. According to the deuce 20P manual (adobe reader pages 266-269 of 1188), both front and rear hubs are the same; P/N 10896708.

A word to the wise; for all to consider... LOGSA has a password requirement and a right of use agreement which you must complete stating that you're active military, with the government (ours), or a defense contractor with a need to know. Once logged in, you can access a lot info but some of it...

Yeah, thought about that. And while I appreciate Bjorn's admonishment about considering max tire speed rating I think my pucker factor will increase exponentially, so as to render the tire rating a non-consideration. I'll be the one doing 42 mph and screaming like a woman.

Hey thanks guys. Am trying to figure out, when the baby HEMTT is operational, if I'll be able to keep up with traffic or if I'll have built the world's fastest roadblock.

Got an engine that'll govern out around 2,800 RPM, top gear is one to one and the axle ratio is 6.44(?) Tires are 53" tall. Is there a simple formula I can use to get a ballpark idea of my top speed in the baby HEMTT when I get it on the road?

Hey Baja, Look in TM 9-2320-361-20P, adobe reader pages 198-199 of 1188. See if that does you any good.

The units we were using came from Germany to be used with Unimogs with trenchers, brush hogs or other slow travel impliments. Not sure what the GPM was 'cause it was all designed to be used together. Never tried one with the engine off but that would definately be something you would want to...

TM 9-2320-361-20P (adobe reader page 254 - 255 of 1188)shows nothing more than the small cylindrical air filter that bolts directly to the pump itself. Nothing plumbed to the engine air filter.

From a purely practical standpoint; if you ever break a lens, the red led will get you home without chancing a ticket for "showing or projecting white light to the rear", which is an equipment violation (fix-it ticket) out here in the golden state.

We tried torque multipliers(generators) on some Unimogs and found that they got real squirrely at road speeds. Way too sensitive to steering wheel course corrections. Have you thought about power steering off of a 5 tonner? Might be something to look into. Power steering is a great idea and I...

baby HEMTT update Well I gotta say that ol' Polverone is one talented guy. I've been admiring the Deuce checklist stickers he did and wanted one but didn't think it would look quite right in the HEMTT cab sooo... I drew up a rough sketch on a grocery sack with a magic marker, sent it off to him...

OOps, you're right again Mike. Been staring at my rear sump CTD too long. Thanks for trying to bail me out sixbuy... But I never said I was an ex-spurt on this stuff.

Deuces always look like their turbos are way undersized. That makes the turbo really spin up like RDD says; plus, deuces are shoving the results of an extra 120 c.i. or so through the exhaust system. Smaller exhaust housing for your CTD would be a start in that direction but be careful of...

Well now, I think I see the problem as evidenced in picture 8_613. Ya went and left your front driveshaft at home.

Jed, If you have good, solid paint then it's doing it's job and doesn't need to be removed. Just scuff sand to get rid of any loose or flaking stuff and to provide a "tooth" for the subsequent coat(s) to grab onto.

Jed, most of the trucks we've had were the base color be it green 383, o.d., or whatever else. Usual practice was/is to lay down the green then shoot the brown or black over it. Gives a more complete coat without chance of gaps between colors. As to what brand... whatever you have access to. We...