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Those glad hand covers are there to keep crap, mud dobbers, etc. out of the system, not to create a seal. I often use those little conical plastic covers that come on fittings and hoses to plug the hole if I don't have the real thing handy. While the plugs don't help protect the rubber seal from...
For almost anything as far as every day use goes, I use JB-80 (aka known as "Twice as good", which I think is an understatement).
When it comes to very stubborn stuff, I use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF.
Not sure how this mix would act on the seals, so some caution may be in order. Without...
Amen.
And if you have time on your side, it often works well to let the system just sit for a day or two (with the lid on, if not using DOT 5), then open the bleeders as described above.
Everybody has their favorite, but I thought that MMO was more of a maintenance than a penetrating liquid.
Be that as it may, the penetrant should displace the air all by itself, even if you cap the system back up. Unless that air tubing is a really small ID. Not having had one off myself yet (I...
So out of curiosity, and maybe you already mentioned it, but what penetrant are you using? And are you filling the void through the hose end and letting it sit and do its job?
I'd leave the tires on, making it easier to move the axle around. Also, for the removal, the backhoe and outriggers are your built in "spring compressors", making leaving the tires on more appealing yet.
Of course, digging into the axle would be my very last resort. Unless I absolutely needed...
I would seriously consider getting it off the hillside before taking the axle off or apart.
Also, keep in mind that depending on whatever penetrant you're using, it can can take days, weeks, or even months, before things get freed up. If it's regular WD-40, it may never happen.
Another way to...
Today's CUCV related accomplishment isn't applicable to a typical CUCV.
To keep from having to lug a mount and pintle hook to and from the M1008, I installed a permanent pintle hook.
While most everything involved (except me) was made in China, at least I did get to use 3/4-inch tools...not 19...
Sounds like you're fighting air leaks and/or crap in the tank, or a plugged vent - like many of us are, or have been.
Personally I've never had a the engine act up due to bouncing...but then, I've never driven fast enough over anything to make a FLU bounce.
If I were smart, I'd start using the Craftsman Universal socket and wrench sets. Then it wouldn't matter if the fasteners are Metric, SAE, square, or previously attacked with an adjustable wrench. Or I could work closer to the garage. That would also cut down on time spent walking to get the...
So is the tie rod technically in the engine bay, or below it? Must be below since all the factory fasteners were SAE on my M1008.
And the batteries are definitely in the engine bay - with SAE fasteners on the clamps.
Today's CUCV related achievement was to get rid of the useless black out light and install a cheap LED work light in its place.
If I can keep doing this, replacing or installing one or two parts per day on my vehicles, the garage would be much less cluttered by year 2058, or so.
Yep, like Rusty says. It's easier to strengthen that area before it fails than after the fact.
Then again, many, many millions of miles have been put on these Chevys without any frame failures whatsoever. It probably depends largely on driving style (terrain), and maybe to some extent, wheel...
I'd agree with the stump or rock theory having seen and bent many tie rods that way. But in this case the bend is down, not back, as it would be from such an impact. The two photos show the tie rod in the same plane.
All I can think of to get such a bend is that either something like a long (and...
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