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I'm not really looking for higher road speeds personally. I'm looking for lower engine RPM at road speed.

time to start saving my pennies - I do want to do this upgrade

for reasons I won't go into - I wanted to add a third tank thhat would be at 200psi - it would be fed by an electric pump and have an air regulator for it to feed 60 psi to the stock tanks, if the mechanical compressor was working then once the stock tanks hit 60 the regulator would shut off...

thanks for the tip . I was able to find the contact information through the depeartment of revenue for the group incharge of motor vehicle and fuel taxes. sent of an inquiry to them, hopefully i can get an answer.

what size are the stock tanks?

I see no purpose in airing the tanks all the way down. only airing down enough to remove the settled condensate (ie drain the liquid) from the tanks.

heat will speed the seperation of water from the oil, the oil will float ontop to you cna drain the water from the bottom of your container. you can also use fuel filters with water seperators when filtering before using.

my understanding is that a mixers liscence is free and you just have to log your fuel usage and pay a menial tax on it. while that may be annoying it's a **** of a lot better than the fines. my only problem is that I've searched and searched and i can not for the life of me find out where to...

could be to help prevent lugging the engine at low rpms after the shift. what rpm does it drop down to after the shift?

I think the last thread about it said that the springs should be able to handle 65 so 50 would be a safe bet. One guy is running 35psi, I think I would start there watching the pyrometer and try stepping it up a little at a time. I would be real happy being able to run 45psi as that's still...

get the 16" civy ones and a can of gilespie that's the route I took, I had one busted mirror so bought a pair of stainless mirrors on ebay. they were almost identical to the stock mirros only stainless. a little etching and spray carc and you can't tell they aren't stock.

have you ever seen the graph of valve height throughout the 4 strokes? Cam profile, timing, and overlap play a huge role in the behavior of an engine that is not under power. This does not translate to pumps designed specificly for generating vacuums which are usually multi stage pumps...

based onthe link the assist ram is not necessary. so basicly a kit with the pump, box, hoses, arm, and joints for the column.

so are these the boxes that are almost bolt in swaps, just need a pump, lines, and the ram?

good old black-n-tan

clothing that resembles the flag is not the flag itself, it is merely and homage to the flag and what it stands for. respect is based on the intent of the rules not the letter of the rules, anyone actually offended should re-evaluate their decision making process.

can't do it without isolating grounds at the very least so i don't think it's possible at all my plan is to switch to 12v as my main power and use a charge controller to charge the 24v batteries for the stock system.

it isn't operating inside of a vacuum, it is removing the molecules to create a vacuum with every stroke of the piston when the trottle plate is closed. That process requires a lot of power. you really have to think of it as pressure differential on the inlet and outlet of the pump. with a...

hey me too - I could really use the end of the air wiper motor with the button on it - my button snapped off.

a strong throttle plate int he exhaust with a turbo charger external wastegate plumbed in to bypass the throttle plate. the spring rate of the wastegate will determine the max backpressure of the brake. simple and safe. then you just have to decide if you want it to be electronic, pneumatic...