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The front end on the FAV is a strange duck. It was built by Chenowth, most oversize beams were built by Warrior. When I first measured it I thought it was a 9 1/4" (stock beam tube width is 34 1/4" my beam tubes are close to 43 1/2", = 9 1/4") but measuring the grub screws center/center showed...

It was a little chilly this morning for the open cab DuraVee so I took the Detroit to town for supplies, it seemed really happy to get out on the road, it has been awhile.

While that is true, if you are in limp mode and there is no light you would immediately suspect the TCM has no power.

Be careful, the light circuit is only designed for an LED so it will not sink too much current, a small automotive test light should be OK. Also plan on installing one, the correct one, if you had it you would have known if the TCM was pissed off.

You never said if they installed a trans light in your dash or not, if not the first thing you should do is get one and install it, the schematic is on page 49 of the guide I posted for you, that is how you get the "codes" out of the TCM

And I am sure they have hell with them, a few seconds exposed to salt water is TOTALLY different than being completely submerged in salt water for hours. I also doubt they do that every day in training.

You need to read the TCM codes, if they did not install a trans light when they did the conversion you will have to rig something up first to get the codes. As CAMO said we had bad information to begin with, you should have lead with the fact it had been converted to a 4 speed.

You are probably going into limp mode, could be a very simple problem like a bad TPS

Have you looked at the TCM codes yet? That should be the first thing to do, that is a completely different animal than the TH400.. Do you even have a trans light?? See attached

I hate to be a bummer but if it is insured I would contact them, that salt water will likely cause mucho problems down the road from frame/chassis/body corrosion to many, many, many electrical issues, nice to get it going but in the real world it is a total loss...

It is keyed

There may or not be a hole in the center where the U joint is, if the joint is out maybe put air there carefully.

Blowing air in the zerk fitting will collapse the shaft not expand it, it will come apart

Of course without air it is a little different but after you air them down you can do every other nut at the same time, by hand one at a time would not be as tedious

Maybe he can get the ID/OD/wall thickness etc, before installing the 5th one, should not be too difficult to cross the number to a production PVC pipe. It would be much easier if one had a lathe big enough to chuck it up.

Mine did not, I have seen others that did unscrew but not on the HMMWV at least not the three speed shaft, taking the zerk fitting may in fact help, if I put grease in the fitting it tries to collapse the shaft, watch out for squirting grease! The cap may in fact need to be correctly aligned...

It will come apart, you cannot remove the dust cap IIRC

Nether the kick down switch nor the modulator cable (TH400 does not have a TV cable) should completely override the mechanical governor and cause this issue, I am of course assuming you have taken up to an RPM in first that would normally force a shift, those are not bad places to start but...

Just a thought, did you service the transmission when you changed ALL the fluids and filters? That is different though

One thing if you go that route is watch a couple youtube vids on that cover, you want to make SURE you get the linkage right when you put the cover back on or you could have a runaway engine, it is best to leave the injector lines loose so if you get fuel flow to them you can pull the solenoid...