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PCB and EESS are pretty much used interchangeably

Well, not getting 24V to the IP solenoid wire 54A and or that wire not being plugged into the correct place on the IP would certainly not yield any fuel to the injectors. It is also possible the IP is bad, there are many non running surplus trucks coming out now with bad IPs.

No you do not, that engine will fire off of ether without the glow plugs, you said you replaced the glow plugs, a simple volt meter test will tell you if you arre getting power to the glow plugs and if the PCB is cycling them correctly.

One of the PCBs that I swap in and out of my HMMWV during maintenance sometimes thumps 2 or 3 times after shutdown. Other than that it works fine, but I would say that is not "normal" I had a cheap electric fuel pump, one of those "thumpers" that would sometimes not let the PCB (multiple...

A diesel has no ignition system, it fires on compression and fuel, work on getting fuel to the injectors first. The tags are readable unless it has been submerged in salt water for a long time, if it is in such bad shape you cannot read the wire tag numbers you are in deep do do... Wire 5a is at...

Something like this.. Every wire on a HMMWV has a tag, with the possible exception of added accessories

I have never seen more than 1 or 2 missing tags on ANY military vehicle I have looked at, look again they are small aluminum tags, looks like something that would be on a pigeons leg for identification, I am looking for a pic but I will bet they are there.

This would be a good time to welcome you to SS, and suggest it is a good idea download and learn how to use the TMs they are all here to download for free. There are allot of folk's here that are willing and able to jump in and help but the sooner you come up to speed on the TMs the easier it...

Every wire has an aluminum tag on it, the one going to the fuel solenoid on the IP is 54A, the one that excites the alternator is 5A, just look for the tag numbers.

You need 24V to wire 54A, check the voltage on 5A at the gen. with the switch in run there should be 24V there, if not it may be a bad EESS

Yep that was about what I was talking about but with much less trauma to my feet, also never use a petroleum product on a tire, there is REAL rubber in that tire, the heavier duty tire the more real rubber (petroleum products break down real rubber) , get some Murphy's tire soap. it is what the...

Best I can remember I stood the tire up and forced the bead lock into it, the wife helped stabilize the tire and I may have used some spoons to help, then layed it down and worked into the center, we are both in out mid 60s and "got her done" EDIT, put them in the sun for a few hours...

What kind of "noise"?

The old school is a 60 A single voltage with brushes and a rather poor regulator subject to failure the 200A and the 100A are dual voltage usually which helps keep the batteries balanced and they are a brushless design. The 100A is much rarer than the 200A and generally more expensive.

Try tapping the starter towards the back with a hammer, if it then starts the brushes are worn/stuck. You say every now and then, when it happens what gets you going?

Well despite the shop electrical disaster which cause a couple hours or wire pulling I finished the welding to the FAV chassis. I replaced the butchered chassis tubing under the dash, added the two missing Dzus plates missing from the front of the roof area and punched the new Dzus holes in the...

That TH400 is a great transmission for a 400+HP truck but sucks up a significant amount of the 150HP you have just to get it rolling, a very inefficient transmission. Nice looking truck, nice that you got doors and some nice additions like the brush guard!

That sluggish feeling does not go away:rolleyes: The belts are probably loose, even when tight they tend to squeal at steering lock and at speed when the fan kicks in. While you wait replace all fluids, filters and tires to start. That damage might be repairable, if not I would thnk that body...

The lamp that burned out was defective, as I said there in no way to wire an incandescent lamp and burn it out, unless you had the truck on a charger that was putting out 30+++ volts. As I said look at the BACK of the headlight shell and make sure all the tags match with the front tags

Where did you get the lights and what were they (LED etc) you cannot wire a 24V incandescent light wrong and burn it out, but as stated above they can "fail" You need to check the wire tag numbers on both sides of the headlight bucket, they unplug from the back of the shell and quite often get...