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You are completely missing the point. These are not even valid comparisons. If, because of an unsafe design, a GM vehicle kills someone, yes GM is liable. Think of the Pinto or recent sticking gas pedals. If YOU as the owner make an unsafe modification, you may not be covered by your vehicle...

You can buy this type of setup off the shelf from Garrison but it is $$$$. Sure, but someone else designed the brakes making it their flaw/liability. If I design a component that fails because it was faulty design/worksmanship (not suggesting that anybody would), seems like the liability...

Here are the notes that I saved from the engine build noted previousy in case someone else is interested in increasing the 302's HP: 302 GMC Buildup Notes OK, I'm no pro engine builder...... the head has Chevy small block V-8 valves,1.94 intake and 1.60 exhaust. They are Manley Street flow...

I ran a 331 for several years. There are several things that you can do to make it better. Electronic ignition and civvy wires (better yet is a civvy disty). Modern holley economaster 2bbl (better hot starts and better driveability). 12V armature in the starter spins the engine a bit faster.

That person spent $3500 on parts and machining and did the assembly himself. It is very expensive to get HP from a 302.

You can shave the head 0.0625 and get 7.7:1 or .125" and get 8.3:1 compression ratio. If you do this you will need to mod your side covers and put spacers under the rocker arm assembly. It is really not the proper way to increase the compression ratio. I'm not sure that you'd notice the...

Working in R&D, I can sympathize. It can be REALLY hard to come up with a new product for which there is a market AND one where you can make any money. If it really is a good idea, most likely somebody has beat you to it or is already in process to do it. It also seems like the SS group...

Not to detract from what Westech has done... There was a thread in SS detailing how you could make these lines using push-lock hose and fittinngs from NAPA, Fastenal, etc for reasonably cheap. I made these lines and I think that I was in it for ~$20 total.

Any details on the 40wt like brand, source, etc appreciated.

You HAVE to flush out DOT3 periodically unless your mc is sealed. Brake fluid Q/A towards the bottom of the page. Understanding Tire Size Ratings - Brake Fluid Comparison - Hot Rod Magazine

So, if I were specifying a custom drag link, what is the "correct" length?

Anybody know the difference between the gasser (7521371) and multifuel (10897161) drag links? Are the ball studs the same (1.25")? Anybody know the ball stud shank diamter at the narrow end? Thanks!

Mine fired up at -10F over the weekend too but it wasn't as easy your experience. I had a 600W block heater and 300W pan heater. What are you using for oil? -10F is quite cold for 15W40.

Ironically, the tractor folks are switching to the high compression ratio pistons to improve cold weather starting.

Comments in red:

Based on what I have read, the multifuel block is weak and the number six tends to break loose. There are a few threads on the tractor pulling sites which talk about. IIRC, the tractor puller was breaking ~5 blocks per season and went to a billet block. I have also read about someone who...

My comments in red:

You are exactly right. Number six breaks loose. I have read about one person who tractor pulls with a 478 billet block because he broke so many stock ones. It may be "bulletproof" at designed levels but it will never be a 5.9 cummins. My suggestion is to forget about re-inventing the wheel...

Read up on the tractor puller sites; you won't fine much of substance here for what you plan to do.