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I was driving through the big city of Skidmore on my way home today in the DuraVee, when I passed a highly accessorized Jeep, he must have seen my "Humvee, like a Jeep but for men" bumper sticker and his fangs came out. I kept him "trapped" behind me (about a foot or so behind me, I could see...

Has anyone considered the fact this guy makes a profit off of these videos with "sensational" titles and the entire thing has been staged?? "reality" Youtube is no different than reality TV that has the entire world watching total BS.

1500 is not that far off of 1700, I would suspect the sender, If it were me I would put the sender in a pot and test it, but that is cuz I am retired and it is too dang hot to hand around outside.

Welcome to the world of HMMWV, maybe some research done beforehand would have been wise.

Actually it would be best to pop the wire off while it is cold and use a jumper (alligator) lead so when you have 160 indicated you do not burn the crud out of yourself disconnecting the wire.

What I would do is heat it up to 160 indicated, shut down and pop the wire off of the sending unit and ohm it to ground, if it reads around 1700 ohms then the GAUGE is reading right, but it could be a bad sending unit, so pop the sending unit out put it in your wife's best pot and bring it to a...

I do not think you should let it run hot even if it is only a faulty gauge, you need to get a handle on what is going on, you still have not said if the fan is running at all now that you have "fixed" the poorly connected connector or not, any time you drive in the summer it is NORMAL for the...

Thermostats are rated on the temperature at which they begin to open and allow coolant to flow through. This opening temperature is usually 195 degrees Fahrenheit on cars. As the engine heats up, the thermostat opens more to allow freer coolant flow. At about 20 degrees above its rated...

Camo might jump in here and list the ohms/temp of the sending unit, yes IIRC it is on the side of the block, again IIRC under the alt where it is a PITA to get to. You may want to re-install the original thermostatic switch, if when you disconnect it the fan comes on then the TDM and the cad...

He has a serpentine belt, I have never heard one of those slipping but I guess anything is possible after cooking in the California desert for decades!!

Sometimes when an engine is actually overheating it can "thump" after being shut off due to the water boiling in areas inside the engine that are hotter then the gauge is registering. (may be thumping while running but you will probably not hear it). And things will tend to be smoking on the...

The switch is a fail safe design, it should engage the clutch when disconnected as in normally closed when cold. At 235 degrees you should be getting some indication it is running hot. Does the fan kick on? if not it is ether too cold or there is another problem, you could wait until it...

The entire tool kit I listed above is only $300 with shipping and there are a ton of handy tools besides the pump test kit from changing ball joints/tie rods to replacing seals and bearings and much more, comes with a rivet/rivnut tool, it even has a run flat remover,,, well worth every penny...

The "civy" pump (metric Saginaw P series) is the same the only difference is the pressure relief valve, I used a rebuilt (Cardone) one for 3 years on the Detroit before going to the remote type when re-powered with the GEP turbo. The only thing I did was use the pressure/flow tune up kit...

You are right that is an earlier TM. but What I had handy, sorry

That is volume 2 you need volume 3

What I am saying is that the wire number is the circuit, in this example it is "AC tap" now on most earlier vehicles there is only a 2A, it goes from the AC tap terminal on the alternator to the EESS box and that is it' On later versions that use the AC tap to feed the tach there could be a 2B...

If they are male/female plug them together and see if the tach starts to work

TM 9-2320-280-20-3 somewhere around page 1160. not sure if that is the TM for your vehicle but the number schemes are the same for all MVs with the exception of a few specialty accessories Wire #2 is the alternator AC tap, used by the EESS and tachometer The A,B,C,D etc are different branches...

I am just curious how the "bad pump" charges the accumulator to begin with? pumps generally make pressure/flow or they don't. also how does the pump know when he gets to the same point in the steering every time so it knows to quit?