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So where we differ is that you say that the rod provides support vertically while I feel that it adds strength in the fore/aft direction. Well, mostly when under tension.
To me, and using your body analogy, that would be like holding a weight with your arm stretched out, versus pulling (or...
General Hood, I'm afraid you might be right. Maybe i should just call them SEE I, II, and III? If nothing else, it'll keep me from buying several more as I can only count to 10 using Roman numerals.
Hopefully Ron and alpine44 got theirs delivered, too. Misery loves company, right?
So today the parts (?) SEE showed up. Didn't want to try starting it (which turned out to be a good thing) so the loader was lifted with the SEE's backhoe and the valves closed so that it would stay up, for sure. And yes, I cleaned and lubed the cylinder rods first.
Pulled it off the trailer...
No, I'm not. Never seen any of it, except for a short part of the video that cucvrus posted. Not only that, I lied. I don't think I've ever watched the Disney Channel, either.
I should've written The Simpsons instead. That show I have seen several episodes of.
I may very well be missing something here, but with that rod being attached to the engine (for all practical purposes) in one end, and to the far right of the transfer case in the other end, it should all move as one unit. And I think it would do so with or without that rod - if all the parts...
That's good to hear, as I may still need a true parts SEE.
In case you didn't already know, Bel-Metric has a lot of those banjo bolts, tubing, etc. Ask for Matt, who (as an added bonus) does know Unimogs.
Glad to hear that. You got in just under the wire, it seems like.
If you don't mind, what number was it, or how many miles are on it? I'm asking because I'm getting pretty good at spotting potential trouble through the GP photos/descriptions.
PM it to me if you prefer.
To me, that higher level of comfort would be a lever, or a simple valve. The more sophisticated a system is, the less comfortable I am with it.
With a lever I can feel if everything seems normal, and a ball valve is simplicity itself.
Not that everything on a FLU can be easily changed over to...
I have not called either of the rods, side or bell housing, a "bad thing". Especially the lower bell housing rods are a very good thing, I think, as they create a truss that helps take stress out of the system.
And as mentioned earlier, the side rod will most definitely help if the transfer case...
Thanks, peakbagger. Hopefully that info can help save a few FLU owners from expensive repairs.
I'm playing it really safe, by checking the levels and driving slowly.
You could run 35s with very minor (practically invisible) fender trimming, and a little bit more for 36s. Unless you need to lift it for some other reason.
I don't think that rod can do squat to help in high horsepower applications. But if hitting the 'case on something (going in a forward direction) or if the front drive shaft is too long, then it could be worth its weight in gold. Well, almost.
Okay, my Suburban, with a 6.2/400/208, has the rod. The 1008 and 1031 doesn't. The real difference, I think, is that the Suburban doesn't have a skid plate.
So if snagging a rock with the Sub's transfer case, the rod will be under tension (it's only strong direction) and can help keeping the...
Sorry, but I still don't get it. That brace is very strong when it comes to keeping the right side of the transfer case from moving rearwards, being a rod under tension.
But the way I see it, the brace has marginal value in compression, and negligable strength if used to help keep the weight of...
I've seen lots of these rods, but after looking at your photos it feels like I must be missing something here. Unless the front drive shaft's slip yoke is not lubed properly, or bottoms out, what good can those side mounted rods do?
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