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Does that mean that you have the switch, but no key for it?
If so, don't fake it like I did, first with a twig and later a key for the same type of switch but not the correct one. That's probably why the switch doesn't seem to work quite right now.
I thought mine, in the "new" SEE, was toast earlier today. It wouldn't turn.
Until I noticed that it turned counterclockwise just fine. Yep, it was already on.
I think that even HF's lowest rated steel jack stands would work. A 404 doesn't weight that much.
For a floor jack, it has to be rated at least at what your corner weight is, so again, almost any of them should do the job. And the reach can be achieved with 4x4 and or 6x6s.
It's a running....parts car.
The two rust spots, in the bucket and the fuel tank, pictured here.It figures that the only steel tank I have is the one that was full of water.
Cleansed the system, changed filters, and bled it. In the process, installed new copper washers at the banjo fittings...
That does sound like a better solution. But as is, there might be a restrictor or regulator for that cylinder. It's painfully slow, I think.
Then again, a 3-point doesn't have to move all that fast, and your linkage can be made to speed the movement up.
No, apparently we aren't talking about the same one. I was referring to the rod shown in posts number 31 and 32, which appears to be basic bar stock and a mere 5/8" in diameter.
And with the bend in it right before the two bolt holes for the transfer case, it really doesn't lend itself to any...
Unfortunately I never did get that far in my quest so I have no measurements yet. Which means that I don't know what cylinder(s) would be suitable.
If you hadn't bought my parts SEE, I'd be in a better position for tearing one apart.
For the implement attachment part of it, there's a fair amount of info over on Benz World. I tend to get lost with all the variations of Unimogs, so I never did understand what fits what model. Partially that's because I'm not a Unimog person, per se. When I bought my SEE I bought a backhoe and...
In theory you should be able to buy the two dies separately, as parts, but it can take a while...if HF would even order them. Check Craigslist for a dysfunctional one (it's really only the jack that can go bad).
Or bite the bullet and buy a new one. They're quite inexpensive as I recall, and...
Congrats! Too bad you have to leave it behind for a while.
Be careful when using the press for straightening those thrust arms. I started with using the press, but the tubing wanted to cave in rather than bend back.
That's when I remembered having a crappy HF "tubing bender", which turned out to...
As you probably already knew, early Jeeps had a simple setup that worked in the correct plane for counteracting torque.
Okay, it was likely more of a transfer case support than anything else, considering the whopping 105 lb.-ft. that the Go Devil engine produced.
On the bright side, there probably isn't much rust around those portals at this point. Also helpful is that the broken bleeder screw already has a hole in the center, making it easier to remove.
And if the brake work somehow fails to improve deceleration, I'd suggest fixing the horn.
You have...
Agree. There as some sizable rat turds on the floorboards of mine, but I haven't seen any evidence of damage, yet. Maybe they have other food sources, beyond SEEs, at Hooks?
I'll keep an eye out for it, Ron. Even if the driver doesn't get lost, your SEE should pass relatively close to here.
And if I do happen to see it, I'll send you a picture...which will get to you faster.
Oh, and happy one month SEE ownership anniversary tomorrow, Ron! Time flies whether you're...
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