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Okay, that rings a bell. Since you're this deep into it, why wouldn't you go through the trans?

That looks like work. Please refresh my memory; what was the original issue that prompted this?

Maybe biodiesel would be the simple solution? I suspect that my use of additives is what loosened up the previously largely solidified crud. Yes, there was a lot of loose stuff in there from the beginning, most of which I managed to flush out, but now the part that looked like spray-on bedliner...

If you're correct, alpine44 (which I hope you're not), and that crud is indeed bacteria rather than leftovers of JP8 and consequent chemical reactions, I have to start with a chemical warfare approach. Since the forward bracket for the tank is easily removed, and the straps have been loosened...

Sorry, I wasn't thinking. If those nipples are not standard stuff (which does sound a little unlikely), it's just a matter of reusing them.

That's one reason I dislike skid plates. Another is that they tend to get in the way when performing routine maintenance. But if you actually do need one, which seems to be the case here, how about making it out of flat stock? If made to be like a grate, it wouldn't necessarily catch all that...

Dang, I didn't know there was clear hose available. But it figures...now that I just ordered more black hose. In reality, I think any hose with the correct ID that is resistant to diesel and has at least some tolerance for heat, would work. After all there's no pressure, positive or negative, to...

You can make your own brake lines easy enough, or buy ones of the correct length at most parts stores. Unless, of course, Unimogs have a unique thread on the nipples. Bending them can be done by hand, and/or with tools for the purpose, depending on how hard they are. And speaking of bending...

That's very comforting to hear. For a while I thought I was the only one who didn't need a lot of lift to run larger tires.

There's a check valve in one of the banjo bolts that I have yet to mess with, which could be part of that problem. But when you say it needs priming, do you prime only or also bleed it? I've found the SHEE to be very tolerant when it comes to air in the system. It'll start and run - run crappy...

Does it need to be primed after sitting for a while, or do you just do it? I don't think I ever had to prime them even if they've been sitting for months. Either way, now I feel that fixing air leaks is easy. Other than installing new hose on the barbed fittings (using a hair dryer to heat the...

Today I learned several things while spending a few hours trying to clean out the tank. One is that the (formerly) parts SEE really is a SHEE. Since this particular tank won't come out easily, the cleaning consisted of draining, scraping, wiping, and scrubbing. This was repeated three times...

It wasn't that long ago, as I recall. Nothing personal, but I rather you spend the time finding it than me doing it. Although, if my back gets any worse I may not be able to do much else than stare at the computer screen, in which case I'd look it up for you.

You're welcome, MAJOR. Glad to learn that it was that simple.

Neat! I'm about to "go defensive", too, but figured that it'd be the fastest to use snippers. But if I had a cut-off tool like yours, I'd probably use it, too. Just because I could.

Okay, I'm nearing the end of solving this particular problem on my (formerly) parts SEE. Today it was confirmed that there are no air leaks left after the valve (thanks mostly to new copper washers from Bel-Metric at the banjo fittings) by having created a vacuum in the strainer. After driving...

I'll have to look up your to-be location, but it can't be that far away. For hydraulic fluid I'm using the cheap stuff, AW-32 from NAPA. It makes a noticeable difference in the backhoe...well, it did to me, anyway. And it kinda makes sense to use hydraulic fluid in the hydraulics, rather than...

Any shift point program that goes up to 7,000 mph can't be all bad...if you're a land speed racer.

Ron, after a quick look at the photos, there are a few obvious things that needs attention. My main concern would be the level of the front hydraulic tank. It may not be empty, but it's not full enough. Doesn't matter until the engine is started. The rear tank is overfull, but that's easy to...