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Okay guys, and especially those who were late to the party and missed out on General Hood's excellent wall charts. If the link below works, it's the digitized version.
7610014757996 Wall chart for the Small Emplacement Excavator.pdf
It's courtesy of Speedwoble, so keep him in mind as you...
Welcome, FLUmmoxed. If you have read threads like this and still wants to join in, you're really welcome.
Surely you've already noticed that guys like peakbagger know their stuff (except when he starts mentioning boat products) and are worth paying attention to. Me, not so much.
Anyway, sounds...
Glad to hear that even a bike pump did well. I'll go for something more meaningful, if for no other reason because I don't have any boat or bike stuff.
You should be able to anneal the copper gaskets you have, by the way.
Wow, that was a crapload of good, interesting, and useful info, speedwoble!
The only FLU related happening I have to share is that I made a (temporary) drive-thru for feeding the FLUs. Since the HMMH was used to move the already full 200-gallon tank from its previous home on a trailer, it was...
Cut a slot in the cup, or drill a series of small holes in it, then cover them with lexan or something similar. See-through convenience combined with the qualities of the strainer.
Not saying that a regular, clear filter would be a bad idea, but I'd add one before the strainer, and likely also...
I've had problems with getting the strainer to seal properly. That's one reason I like the pressurized method of trouble shooting. It's easy to see fuel coming out, not so much seeing air going in.
I kinda like the stock strainer, though. It looks right, is probably good at trapping water, and...
I'm using a 12-Volt pump for the troubleshooting. Once (if) I solve the problem(s), it can be used on something else.
When things work correctly, as is the case with my original SEE, and the HMMH, there's no need for priming. Even after sitting for a month or so, they fire right up. They usually...
Using the new style primer pump it came with, I've probably spent some five minutes at a time, pumping as fast as I can, using alternating hands.
That's what inspired me to plumb in the electric pump.
Then again, I'm facing the same issue you are so that should not be the norm. I sure hope to...
In reality, if one shifts correctly there would be no need for the synchros. But somewhat like rain sensing wipers and automatic headlights, we're no longer required to think while driving.
Single circuit brakes are fine...until they're not. Then you better fix the horn, just in case.
Far from an expert on CUCV electrical, the highlighted points do not make sense to me. Not that it means much.
But without an operational Gen 2 light, I wouldn't expect that alternator to work.
Oh, I had forgotten about those. Okay, I wanted to. It bugs me that manufacturers can't make receivers and ball mounts with decent tolerances, but in a driveshaft application that slop takes on a whole new meaning. Lots of affordable travel, though.
Either way, it'd be easy enough to turn the...
Well, you can't really put a dial indicator on the driveshaft while the rear U-joint is flopping around. How about removing the driveshaft and check it for straightness before installing new U-joints?
My reason for suggesting forklift damage is that if a vehicle was bought at auction, all kinds of interesting damage can occur when lifted by a careless operator.
Let's say that the rear driveshaft was slightly damaged (bent or dented). Then nobody thought to look the vehicle over and simply...
I thought I did, until buying that Pete. Used to drive a lot of vehicles without using the clutch (not always by choice) but keeping track of speed and rpm with an 18-speed was an entirely different experience, with or without the clutch.
It helped a lot when a friend explained what the two...
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