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Okay, my usual suspects are the master switch and the clutch interlock. I'm guessing clutch in your case. And you should touch it. Literally. There has been times when "slamming" the clutch pedal down won't do it and I had to push it in by hand.

I just don't understand how any of those things would keep it from starting. Does it act like a bad connection when you hit the start button? If not, it could be that darn switch at the clutch.

For sale: Slightly used SEE fuel troubleshooting setup. Possible trade for 2-inch widened wheel that doesn't leak, a functional left door latch, 50 gallons of AW 32, or something similar. Well, that's what I intended to post, but once again I can relate, patrol578. As soon as I had removed the...

I can call and cheer you on. Repeatedly. Think it'd help? Besides, what fun would life be without continuity?

I don't think I've ever tried any wipers on a dry windshield, but how do your wipers work under the conditions they are supposed to work in; a wet windshield? Rubber and glass have a lot of friction when dry.

I can relate. Except in my case it's been months. Had a few minutes, and the desire, so today I hooked up a portable air tank to the vent. Loosened the small plug at the filter housing inlet (there as a result of removing the diagnostic gizmo) and gave it some air. Nothing. Tried again, nothing...

Did you already forget about those seats from Surplus Center? As I recall they were about $20 a piece, which is why I bought two...shipping on one would've doubled its price. And, no, I haven't tried to install one yet. It's four bolts, how hard could it possibly be, even if the pattern doesn't...

See that little coupler near the engine? Those things only get around by being towed. As in Fort Towson. Never seen one in real life - they must all be in the so-called midwest.

Would that be including the Unimogs used by this country?

What surprised me is that they still make them. Or are they used/NOS? And you must've done some rewiring to separate the blinker from the brake light.

Maybe it's the vampire edition? If so it wouldn't show up in a photo using a regular mirror reflex camera.

So if there's no heavy draw the second alternator won't work, if I understand it correctly. Maybe that's why the light for the second one won't go out? There's no draw.

Man, wheel chocks, safety glasses, jack stands, tire dolly...do you guys have OSHA looking over your shoulder there?!?

Ray, I'm guessing that you use Google. That's how I found this site, while searching for info on SEEs. In the process I also came across numerous parts sources for Unimogs in general. Some are companies selling new and used parts, others are individuals. Either way, with the condition of the...

I agree, especially if reaching the end of the cylinder's travel before coming to a stop. But putting some cribbing under the bucket instead of curling it out is not a big task. Not that I've tried that yet. Besides, my SEE's loader won't lift the front anyway (need to modify the regulator...

You can use a single gauge wired through a switch. Flip it one way to read one battery, the other way to read the other battery.

If you really want one, I have a few left over stock work lights. Not the bracket or park/blinker light, though. Places like Vons may have the complete setup.

Does this mean that your loader won't lift the front of the SEE, or that those pavers aren't rated for it? I'd think that the jack and jackstands would be harder on the pavers.

You may want to read the SEE, HMMH and HME thread. Just recently the subject of getting the throttle linkage unstuck was covered there. Actually, if you read that thread from start to ever-expanding-finish, you'll find more info than most can absorb in a single read.

Then I'd think there are tires good for whatever speed a 1300 can muster. Not that I checked what the Super Swampers or Pitbulls I got are rated at - I was more concerned with the load rating for the SEE - but if they are good enough for pickups on the street, they should work on a 1300, as far...