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3 weeks on my m1009

taged it, reg it, mounted the licence plate bracket and tomorrow, getting ready to put new ball joints in it and tie rod ends so i can fix the freeplay and get them wheels strait!

just wondering, its are units old fueler till we got the new A4 hemtt fueler, they totaly described it wrong, it wasnt towed in, we drove it in and it does start all it needs is new batterys, that truck was rarely used cuz we had a fuel point with a 4500gal tank. if any one did win that truck is...

replaced the door seals, window seals and put new door locks in! :D

CAIM DOWN warthog im just asking a simple question. im new at this ok im used to putting nsn on paper or ordering parts for civi trucks. i didnt know u could do that, thanks for pointing that out for future references,:smile:

we have a ton of those a2's in are motor pool, i think we have a lay out of the pluming some were ill try and find it. cam point, the junkyard of the military.

yea the back were the driveshaft connects to, i hate using rtv, but if i cant find it i guess ill have to.

so what diff seal do i get? i know its a 10 bolt but i need to know which seal do i buy?

this weekend, repacked the front hub bearings found one bad bearing replaced it, drained both diffs, found water got into the rear diff from a bad oil seal, but everying checks out good, put 2 new u joints on the drive shaft, and found that the left brake caliper is sticking and is hard to press...

quick ? my rear diff oil seal is leaking, do i order the seal off a k10 3/4 ton cuz the civi blazer is 1/2 ton, its sounds like a stupid ?, but i just want to make sure, thanks

oh man sorry sine metu my bad i was looking at the m1010 guide not the m1009 thank u for correcting me warthog on that they are 14.5v, just go in the eletrical diagram and looking for that bad link i seen one almost right off the alt if u peel the eletrical tape off and heat protective covering...

thanks i do that its too cold out there and its going to snow but it will be a nice weekend project

oh yea then it will have the testing section in the link i forgot about that it will show u how to test the alt

my bad left is drivers if siting in the drivers seat, if u have adobe reader its pg954 in the 34 level tm for the eletrical drawling and pg 66 in the troubleshoot section also in the 34 level tm if u dont have it ill post it up for u

i wish i knew i have the same problem dim gen 2 light, but mine a hair away from over charging. im trying to figure it out but not tonite its in the high 20's out there i think it can waittill the weekend when i fix my washer motor

the right alt. charges both batterys which is spos to be 25-28v but can not go pass 30v the left alt charges the front batt. if your front isnt charging but your rear is then i check the left alt. look in the tm for trouble shooting and currect voltage. and trace the wires u may have fray a...

replaced the relay, it starts now and replaced some vacuum lines and got the transmission shifting past first so its been a great weekend

well i waited 40 days for my m1009 and that was my fist one, it came out of ft. sill

i tested it on the alt. + ter. when i start it, it stays at 21v then after u let it warm up it go to 30v the the gen 2 light flashes, i think the reg. is going bad in it, i might have to get it rebuilt at a local shop. and i fix the shocking problem there was one bad link in it looks like a old...

i forgot to say this the driver alt read 14v and the pass read 20-30v is it spos to be like that?