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I have no idea why guys spend their money turboing these engines. If it's just for a whistle, well ok I get that. The NHC250 is a pile of crap....pile of crap for being utilized into these military vehicles that are the backbone of any armed forces. I wonder why you'd want a underpowered engine...

I'm seriously thinking about upgrading to a new engine. I looooooove the purr of a 3406B. The NH250 is useless in M931, and what a tractor should be able to do.

Yes, sorry it was the PPV on mine, it opens at 90 psi for accessories, couldn't find one that opens at 65 psi or whatever the stock one was.

Ever since I bought my truck, the fail-safe had been unplugged. With in plugged in the issue was the park brake light/buzzer wouldn't shut off. I diagnosed and found the park brake switch wasn't closing, (therefore grounding on contact) regardless of what position the park brake handle is in...

My M931 had an issue where it would build to 150 psi and the blow-off valve would kick in. No air to accessories (horn, wiper, etc) or governor. Turns out the priority valve was stuck closed and over pressurizing the system. Replaced with a civvy one that opens at 90 PSI, good to go.

I want a set!

In Canada (for me). You need to have a low air light for vehicles manufactured after a certain year. You can be deaf and drive a truck but obviously not blind so a light is preferred but they come equipped with both from OEM.

That's awesome!

Thanks, I appreciate that. Hopefully, inside the box there is a wee bit of excess wiring on the plug, like to keep the plug OEM if possible.

I've ran with it unplugged since the day I bought it, it's the only issue this truck has. I've contemplated very much making my own alarm box but I need some more info on what wire does what going in/out the box. I watch my gauges (I have my CDL) so driving a heavy truck isn't unfamiliar to me.

My FWCD is acting up too. Buzzer goes 24/7 with power on and no park brake & low air warning lights at all. Imma start this week some time cleaning the grounds and start the diagnosis first before condemning it.

I suggest keeping your caging bolts in the cab, clean and ready to use if you need them. After awhile, the corrosion from aluminium & steel render them useless and crack the pot if left in their holder.

Does anyone know the Cummins or equivalent part number for the oil filter adapter base o-ring? The big one. Mine is leaking, I followed the instructions to the T but it leaks so I'd like to change it.

Hmmm, well auto slacks were a good choice as it looks pretty tight to go in there and adjust periodically with manuals. I understand what you mean about the drums not covering the shoes completely if mounted outboard. That setup in your pic looks 100% to me like a Dayton drum, which IIRC only...

Could you slide the drum over from the outside or they not long enough to cover the shoe properly? Those new drums you got in your kit look like Dayton bolt-on drums. I wonder, if by chance you had a standard 16.5" steel drum used on today's s-cam equipped trucks; would it slide on?! Then you...

You know, 2 piece backing plates make all the difference. Make sure you put a good coat of anti-sieze of those bolts. extracting broken backing plate bolts on a spider is one job that I dislike alot haha.

Did your kit include the valves? I plan on when I do mine to use the existing valving and just run the appropriate line to each chamber. Today, I did a vehicle inspection on a truck with s-cam brakes on the tandem and wedge on the steer. This setup used Dayton hubs. The backing plates on the...

Good choice on the slack. I think they're the best overall.

Meritor auto slack 100%. No fixed anchor points for self adjustment, no ratcheting mechanism to fight against (especially when they're worn out like on Haldex ones). Just pull the Paul out with a screwdriver and turn the 5/16" head for adjustment. You can buy the special adjustment tool for them...

I'm not sure how much experience you have with air brakes but a couple tips I can throw at you for their maintenance is anti-seize is your best friend. Lube the anchor pins religiously and well as the s-cam splines. Same with the clevis pin/slack bushing during assembly, everything needs free...