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Please try to post/ attach actual pictures. Those links all gave an error message. Here is a tutorial, how to post pics - just in case.

Now that is funny, Wes!:mrgreen:

Those bolts only hold the wheel halves together, but they do not lock the tire bead in place. Do as suggested above, post #43.

:funny:

Please post this as an ad in the Parts-Wanted section of the classifieds. Want-ads are free.

Yes, the winch assembly itself is exactly the same. Adapter parts and -numbers are described in TM 9-2320-272-24P-2, Fig. 470. Some pics of those parts can be seen here, also.

Did you replace the throw-out bearing, also?

It is needed - for peace of mind, at least...:-)

Also this thread: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?171905-Pinion-seal-which-side-is-which Posts #9 and #10

You really don't have to remove that shaft unless the bearing is bad. Just pull that old oil seal out with the help of a pair of sheet metal screws.

Eight, followed by a bracket always produces that smiley. Just leave a space between 8 and ) Fixed it for you.

That would be Tim Glance from Old Grouch (Chief_919); he is in Clyde, which is like 3 miles NE from Waynesville... Give him a call; his number is posted here...

Congrats for getting involved in such a (nice)"accident"... and welcome to Steel Soldiers! Yes, this is the correct sub-forum.

No idea. The only thing special on these boots is the collar on one end, to hold it in the bore via the stock retaining cup.

It really shouldn't be able to move-in much past that 1st notch. Could it be that the retaining snap-ring #53 is missing? It goes in the groove, in the splined end of shaft #4 and stops the shift collar #38 before it bottoms out at the end of the splines, on shaft #4. Well, yes - if you mean...

Not difficult at all! Maybe read this old thread showing seal numbers. Also post #8 in that same thread. (much easier to change seals and dust boots with the shaft removed, of course.) The correct seal for the rear (aux.) output shaft would be Timken #254287 (1.25" hsg.bore; 7/8" shaft diam...

It is 1/4" NPT.

See below diagram.... Unscrewing 5 cap screws (#37) is all it takes to remove the whole rear auxiliary drive unit and take a look inside. It should come off easily; if not then the front nose of the output shaft (#40) could be stuck in the corresponding shaft assembly #4 and that would already...

Here is how... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?59917-How-to-post-pictures-a-tutorial&p=1295196&viewfull=1#post1295196 or https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?59917-How-to-post-pictures-a-tutorial&p=2026066&viewfull=1#post2026066

I was able to save an otherwise good engine, after someone had already buggered up one of the holes, trying to remove a broken bolt. No helicoil in the world would have worked, in this case. But drilling out/threading both holes to accept 9/16"×18×L 1-1/2" full-thread bolts (pre-drilled &...