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That... and then the corresponding pushrod may have jumped out of position, already. If lucky enough it isn't bent.
Reason enough (for me at least) to remove the covers and take a look.
First try to determine the cause. Do not... force it, e.g. by using the starter!
Yes, it could well be a valve, stuck open - as mentioned above. I would remove the rocker arm covers and check if all 16 valves are able to move freely. Also check the pushrods, if all in place and straight.
You aren't joking, right? Wheels are all identical. No left and right shoes, there... So the answer is no.
This is clearly a machinist's mistake. (it happens; blame it to Mr. Murphy). They need to either refund the money or send the correct parts.
Well, on the sidewall it clearly reads REMOLD IN USA.
While "remolding" certainly IS a way of retreading a tire, there is a big difference in the process, for each:
Retreading Pre Cure VS Remolds
Gear junkie's independent test report of the TW-Guard Dog tires, (a longer read) here...
Me, too! Even some out of very low-mileage HMMWV engines.
I always wondered what makes them break in two, despite the fact that those are through-hardened & very brittle steel rods.
Beadlocks are easy to install, without any special tools. But in order to get a runflat insert back into a tire it requires it to be compressed to almost a figure-8 and then banded with something easy to undo- or cut, once inside.
Use of pry-bar(s), lots of patience and plenty of tire lube are...
Your problem is probably rust, plain and simple. There is a reason it takes a felt washer - well soaked in grease, in between the backing plate and the first retainer washer. (part #18 in diagram, below).
Eventually the grease will dry out and the pin start to rust where it goes through the...
14.5R20 are MPT-type tires and take a special MPT-style 20×11" rim. Your stock rims are 20" but only 7.5" wide. So, too narrow, and also their bead flange is too tall, for the 14.5s.
Only two 10-bolt patterns are being used in the truck world, military or civilian:
1) SAE std: 10 on 11-¼", with a 8-¾" (pilot)center hole.
2) Metric: 10 on 335mm (13.19"), with a pilot hole of 281mm (11.063").
Most MRAP wheels come with the type 2) center, as well as many of the more modern...
Guess I should have done the same - instead of re-posting my own files...:idea:
See, a lot of info - if not most everything - about the HF54 steering gear (and its variants) has already been posted on SS. So it all depends on how you search.
In this case, the very first thread that pops up...
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