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I know exactly what you went through to fire the old girl up (been there done that many times at my museum). These things are fun to fire up and take for a spin aren't they????? Now you gotta get an old car to crush with the girl [thumbzup]

I've had several similar experiences with mine as well just like you describe CARNAC, its always fun to hear the stories from the guys who used them in combat.

If the filters are plugged (like Gimp suggested) and you ran it out of fuel make sure to rebleed the system prior to starting. It will save your batteries and your starter.

All I can say is great job guys. The generosity shown by you guys helping a complete stranger is just incredible.

You're going to get flammed hard for this; trust me. Basic response is that this is a military vehicle site and if you want to talk firearms there are other sites just for that. Steelsolders (Chris) doesn't want stuff like that discussed on this site as it has a tendency of making certain...

All I can say is to read up on the regulations that detail what exactly an antique registration covers and if you're in the right go to court to challenge it.

Don't know about the heat issue, I only coated the bed and in 90 degree weather last summer I didn't have any issues with it. That being said I haven't went and intentionally heated the stuff up to see what its fail point is; you may be correct when it gets closer to a higher heat source.

I did mine with Herculiner last year. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/members-rides/34160-herculiner-my-deuce-bed.html

The 24V is accomplished by hooking the 2 12V batteries in series with each other like Richmond explained. On the explanation below when standing beside the passenger side of the truck looking at the battery box Batt 1 is the battery towards the fuel tank, Batt 2 is towards the front axel...

How can't they? Its the rules set to them by the gov't and if you don't comply you aren't allowed to bid on their sites anymore.

Actually going to be turning it down after I bypass the FDC. Was flip-flopping between turbo and EGTs. I decided the turbo would be easier to install and re-set the fuel with, especially in single digit weather.

It was the only one that NAPA had that didn't require electricity and was close to the original gauges. Vacuum might be used if the engine ever starts running backwards, but I hope it doesn't.

I didn't use magnetic ones, I got ones that you closed in the tail gate of the trailer, never had an issue with them moving. These are the lights that are designed to be used on cars and you use the trunk to hold them on. Got them at Wal-Mart.

Thanks guys, the instrument panel mod was pretty easy to do. The original high beam hole is centered perfectly with both the bottom row of gauges and with the oil pressure gauge. So all we did was made a jig that bolted into the original high beam bolt holes, marked the center of the big hole...

Just got done installing my turbo (boost) gauge and the civy wiper conversion with the Anco blades/arms. Next I am going to bypass the FDC, re-set the fuel (hence the turbo gauge need) and install a 24V to 12V power converter. Need to get a CX-13908 cable to run from my MX-7777 surge...

I guess its because we get this stuff so cheap from GL that they can't afford to pay for the quality personnel that we were used to having help us.....rofl

Thanks for the pictures. That trailer with the M1 on it looks a little overloaded though I did just notice extra sets of tires on it.

What the heck did he do to burn out the tranny packing snow?

I made the History Channel show Lock And Lock with R. Lee Ermey. Wasn't in my Deuce but was driving a M60A3 tank around.

Check the classifieds for the tarp/bows.