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Im sold on one since its water proof. Make sure you have jerry can mounts to sell along with these.:) Love having vendors on forums, such a great feature.

Cucv Wiki - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

There was a guy on the east cost with crated up NOS axles. Dana 60's and 14b Doesnt help you much in AZ, but they are out there I'll look for them but it's been a while Best of luck in your search

Looks like a jk to me. My family has a 2010 lifter 3 inches with rubicon wheels/ mud terrains. Im keeping my eyes open for a trailer like that just for it. Nice buy and i would keep it original, but whatever works is important.

I think that even if the ujoints feel good, they should still be replaced. You went with new everywhere underneath the truck, why not the u joints too? It is also a cheap option to try before going the driveshaft route

Stay away from jasper, have only heard bad things about their 6.5's Couple months ago there was a guy on cl in Indiana with a bunch of NOS 6.2 engines, They were going for 250 i think. Keep searching and good deals will turn up.

That was an awesome post. Very informative. I would try and get an np205 before i went to a 241. Gear driven vs chain driven Also did you replace the ujoints? I think its good measure to be replaced when modifying the suspension.

Ditton on the road trip.:driver: You have two so you can drive one with the other in tow until it breaks, and then switch. Plus jaymcb has a m109a4 as backup. lol Always love the recovery threads, good luck however you decide.

Wheres the details on the engine blowing, what happened?And of course carnage pics are always nice. And the 6.2/6.5 are the same block/engine, except for the bolt-ons depending on year

I was never sure when i replaced mine. I bought the st85 for 50 bucks i think. Later on while at the local auto place i asked them for a gp relay and they just pulled a plow relay off the shelf, same as the dh relay and any lawn mower relay. Next time i will use one of those for $10

Nice what company did you get the injectors from? Do you know what they Pop tested at? Why marine over standard? Curious as my injectors are on the list.

Depending on the year a 506 can be the best, or worst block Gm 6.5 with 506 casting are known to blow out the #7 cylinder wall. The new optimizer castings are also 506 blocks, but have a better metal content in the block. That said i am bolting in a 506 6.5 goodwrench, into my second truck...

Yes you are correct, The IP is easily turned up and all turbo stuff will bolt on. What does the dyno say for power for your engine? What block? Just curious

I ended up just running it, It caused no problems. The engine however decided to blow the headgasket and then develop rod knock, the tip never even moved from the precombustion chamber. I have the tool in Massachusetts if anyone needs to borrow it,

I'd be all over that radiator, offering 150 or so That cooling thing seems like a great idea. Im sure you could fab up a kit for much cheaper. Should help with the rear cylinder cooling, Those cylinders are the first to overheat i believe.

Awesome build, I love the centre mount turbo's. I would prefer it over the sidemount because it will equalize pressure between both side of the engine. Most diesels use centermount turbo. I have also read that they flow a lot better than the othe gm turbos Cant wait to see it buttoned up, good...

I have heard of a DB2831 a na fuel pump for a 6.5. The plungers are .31 instead of .29 if i remember correctly, thus flowing more fuel. Also if you want more there is the 4911, or the super coveted 5722

Yes i read SS all the time for fun. I like to hear what people buy and how much they pay to get an idea for whats out there. He might of been looking in junkyards or found a NOS source, who knows? Op do you have pics of the liftgate?

Nice truck, Looks familiar almost.

That looks pretty nice for 1900, Did it come painted like that? Remember the TM's are all knowing I am shopping for a radiator also can you post up what you find/get?