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I have wondered this too. The trandmission PTO's that are made to have the rear output, must be able to be controled to have only the rear turn if they want to, correct? if the front turned also, it would fry the band brake for the winch clutch. so does that mean the transmission rear PTO output...

well its about time to put my deuce away and i looked at the odometer and put 5000 miles on it this summer. i made the usual repairs on it this summer like changing oils and fixing oil leaks. I didnt have that many leaks an i cant blame the deuce when they were the original seals. All those...

if you do a search for flame heater leak, you'll find the info about replacing the o-rings in the nozzle so it dosnt leak. i think replacing the o-rings would be easier than disconnecting everything. better having the flame heater than not having it if it got cold. but yes, they still should...

If you pry the seal and bend it a little bit its never going to be the same. I wouldnt think a pallet jack would work. I just took the tires off and then took the drum and hub off all in one shot. i grunted a bit carefully removing it making sure not to ding the bearings

that looks great! my M35A2 has a winch, so i often think of all the weight that the plow would add. another member on here has a plow on his and it works great for him. I would love to put a plow on mine but i allready have a plow on my jeep, so i probably wont put one on. I'll put tire chains...

looks like a nice score, hopefully someday ill get a trailer for my deuce. i dont know what i'd do with it, but it would be nice to have!:jumpin:

I agree with what you are saying about the timing marks. i know the red tooth mark is only for removing the HH. I have a friend that went to diesel school and he said he could borrow a pop tester so we can pop test the injectors. It would be intresting to see how they are. When i started it up...

if i have a big load on the back ( only happened a couple times), ill start at the bottom of the hill on low range and just take my time going up the hill. I split shift the t-case sometimes and its only going from low to high, but i still dont know how they work inside and it makes me nervous...

Agreed! i did the same exact thing with my deuce when a tree was leaning over my nieghbors garage. worked like a charm. then we cut up all the pieces and loaded it in the deuce.[thumbzup]

im not sure about the crank pulley, and the driven pulley of the compressor is variable diameter due to using the pulley to tighten up the belt. maybe ill try tightening up the belt some more. it flops pretty good at idle when the compresser kicks on. worth a try i guess.

So once the timing mark in the window is lined up, the red tooth on the HH gear should be one tooth to the rear. I havent messed with that or even checked that. 24 degrees would be quite a bit off. would it even run? do you guys think if the pump is off that much it would effect my...

It is a Code E pump by the way if that matters.

The FDC is not hooked up. Uncle sam bypassed it. When i was running 50% WMO, i could hit 10psi. The marks on the balancer are the same for the LDT-465 and the LDS-465, you were just being specific, correct? I have to search more maybe, but i dont know how hard of a job it is to set the timing...

I have a similiar issue. I have 5000 miles on it since i bought it in april. I have had times this summer where it ran awesome and then sometimes it dosnt run so good. I adjusted the valves (some were tight), checked my intake pump (hight was set 3 inches to high per TM), checked fuel lines...

I replaced my transmission output seal this summer. i got the seal from napa per the cross reference table on here and it worked great. it is a little narrower than the old felt seal that was in there before

I know this is an old thread, but i have the same vibration you guys are talking about and i have a single cylinder compresser also. im wondering if it has to do with the single cylinder compressor spinning a little faster or slower than the engine crankshaft. say the ratio would be like 1:10001...

does that car have enough power to run that stuff? i bet he could key the mic and just about stall the car.

i year ya. it is a process and experience changing all the fluids. I changed my t-case fluids and found a small small piece of a bearing retainer. made me a little nervous but everything works fine for almost 5000 miles. ill split shift the transfer case sometimes, but i rather shift it when im...

for the master cylinder, yes, take it off every time to check the fluid level. check the t-case fluid level by in screwing the fill port and filling it up to the bottom of the hole

plus its fun looking in the mirror and seeing the front tandem spinning just a hair faster and seeing it leave black marks on pavement or dig up dirt when i turn... lotta power and torque to do that! :twisted: