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Only way to do it right! Truck will turn out great when starting with a solid foundation.

Pull out the choke half way. Or better yet, send the carb to Brooks Engine Service

WWW.M715zone.com. You will have to register there to see the manuals.

Unfortunately I am incorrect, this site does not have M715 manuals, you will have to go to M715zone.

Sure, dig around in the “TM download” section of this website, it will be a appendix of a manual ending in -20, -24, or -34. I can’t recall which.

Well if you were using a V8 GM engine I would suggest using a distributor from a M114 APC (it had a 283). To retain the GM set up, there are 24/12 converters available.

Yes. Probably better than the old design.

Are you asking if you can use a Delco style 24v alternator instead of mounting the M715 unit on your GM engine? Sure, that is a good idea.

If it’s a new belt, they tend to stretch a bit upon being run. Retighten.

I would think your Army registration number on the hood is not what you stated with 69 added to the vehicle identification number. Especially if it’s an AM General A2. That was a Ford thing. The heater has nothing to do with the vehicle identification.

Oh sorry, yes, the F has a valve cover on top of the engine. L is a flathead with 4 spark plugs sticking straight up.

Yes those are stock deuce wheels. Lock ring tube type wheels that people use to mount tubeless 395's with tubes. Not the best set up. That tire is dry rotted and will blow out. Many vendors offer 395s now, that is the most common US Army tire now. Shop price and delivery cost. Ask for...

There are F and L 134 engines. The valve in the vent line is for the fording kit. There is or should be a second valve next to the positive crankcase ventilation valve. When both are closed, blowby pressure will build up in the crankcase which will keep water from seeping in.

No not the entire knucke! There are plastic bearings that need to be replaced. Off Road Design is a good parts source for upgrade design parts. The oem parts are flimsy.

Sounds like what is called “death wobble”, can be caused by many issues but by far the simplest to fix is tire defects like you have. If problem remains after new tires, the knuckles on the front axle will need overhaul.

Welcome Shaun. It appears that GP purges off the sold listings after about a year or so.

The six hole rectangular pattern on the flat plate mounted a “sugar scoop” antenna bracket. Entire thing looks shop made.

Maybe I can offer a little motivation on the 757s, I had the pleasure of driving a 656 back in the day and OMG what a screamer that truck is, the Allison keeps the turned up 220 hp LDS way up in the RPMs and man it runs like a scalded dog, very impressive.

Wow, you live in the epicenter of MV barn and pasture finds, people have been hauling stuff off Ft Hood auctions since WWII. I used to be guilty of that myself.

Well if it’s a flathead with 4 spark plugs sticking up out of the head, it’s a 134. To see if you have a M38 military engine, look at the serial number boss near the water pump, a M38 engine will start with “MC”. Regardless the post war flathead Jeep engines are basically the same 1946 until...