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Didn't like my answer eh? The TM instructions are difficult to decipher because the item numbers and illustrations don't coordinate well. The TM also provides essentially the same torque chart I suggested (which all originate from the machinists handbook). Here's the chart from the TM itself...

The gen 2 HVAC box is all servo controlled. Make sure none of the air lines from the emergency/park brake control are interfering with the operation of the servos immediately under it.

Looks like probably rear main to me. Oil being flung around the bell-housing by the flywheel, wicking it's way through the breather fitting, etc. Clean everything with brake cleaner and add UV dye to the oil. Get an inspection camera and pull the starter out so you can look in there. But...

Not true. The C7 trucks will hit 62-63 mph wound out. And depending on how the tire roundness and balance stacks up on each truck and tire pressure you can have pretty aggressive tire behavioral problems at about 45+ mph.

I haven't had this locking up behavior.... I did used to get the pop of the brakes releasing when leaving the driveway but over time that seems to have gone away. We do get plenty of rain here in Oregon so.... not sure on that. On my big list of stuff to do is rebuild/change all the brake...

:oops: Hopefully that was one of the 2008 tires. No great loss if that's the case. Glad you didn't get halfway to the doctor before you noticed. Imagine if you had the 370 HP tune...... :ROFLMAO:

I haven't looked for the links themselves - if you need boots that's easy: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tie-rod-and-drag-link-dust-boot-part-number-and-links.206375/ My truck had 6k miles on it when I changed the boots out (disintegrated) but the links themselves were in pristine...

It's not really a big deal - @Lostchain pulls his M1082 with ECO hubs and has no issues. It makes sense when you think about it - for a given road speed the engine RPM's are half what they used to be with the reduction hubs so slowing down airflow through the engine with a cork in the exhaust is...

My original 2008 tires were perfectly smooth after 6 months of driving on them (including the 2800 miles home - it still took 6 months for them to "round out" and be really smooth). Then had a blow out on the front. My 2021 tires are getting better the more I drive them. Sitting doesn't help the...

The PAC brake isn't nearly as effective with the ECO hubs as it was before. It helps but not nearly as much as the transmission downshifting. The FMTV PAC Brake does have a tendency to seize up - mine did at one point and I had to remove it and "service" it aggressively in my bench vise quite a...

The AC compressor runs on it's own V belt and there's two different lengths of AC compressor belts used depending on the type of tensioner.... https://www.psmagazine.army.mil/News/Article/2847381/fmtv-old-ac-tensioner-system-not-in-tm/

That is also one of the bolts that holds the air compressor and power steering pump - which is the most common source of cracked timing cases when the bracket bolts that hold the hydraulic (power steering) pump get loose and allow the compressor and the pump to hang unsupported from the timing...

I don't think you understand. The only way oil can get into the hole to leak from between the cover and the bracket is for the cover gasket to have failed or for oil to be present in the (blind) threaded hole. Neither of these is likely to be fixed by "goop" on the threads. You can keep trying...

That appears to be coming from the timing cover under the bracket. No amount of sealant of any kind on the bolt is going to solve that. The oil isn't coming through the threads - it's coming from between the cover and timing case and you can tighten it till you strip it or break it and oil will...

I prefer this: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/thread-sealants/loctite_5450.html But also - pics of which bolt and how do you know it's the *threads* that are the problem? Is oil working it's way up through the threads or coming from under the head of the bolt? These are very...

I've seen that but it's usually with the type of harness insulation the Germans tend to use. Mercedes has had problems with that on their transmission harnesses wicking ATF into the computer. In this case it appears the AMP connector has the wires potted into it on the inside of the valve cover...

Call DG and ask them?

I had the same problem with my oil pressure till I changed out the harness connector and the sending unit. Then recently I started having the same problem with the Boost pressure sensor (goes into limp mode with zero boost) and the atmospheric pressure sensor. At that point I was suspect of the...

I think it's more a case of the harness has to be just the right length to not touch any of the moving parts under the rocker cover but they didn't account for the plastic insulation and sheathing shrinkage due to engine heat and it shortened some areas and bulged the wire toward the valve...

Yeah that looks right. Odd it didn't come with a type 2 also. They do make a type 2 cable for the DPA that doesn't need an adapter. Even my DPA-3 has the type 2 adapter.