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if your a V-belt? You need an RCSK18330 pump… your SN was assigned during reset…so it doesn’t really follow the normal SN range as referenced in the TM’s.

I can’t unsee that…it’s incredible what people do with these vehicles

12339595 is the steel hatch version

sounds like your fan clutch never engaged on the over heat, on the PS issue? You probably have the wrong serpentine belt.

That’s commonly broken, either from demilitarization or just because it’s in a crap location…

PM me…this topic has been beat to death.

Hummer H1 uses same filter and filter housing

The “pancake” compressor is an R4 compressor used in all factory ECV’s, the Larger Sanden compressor is for a universal RedDot kit.

ok…soooo The USMC as you can see from the stencils on all USMC trucks tracks via the Registration number, the Army also uses a registration number but its numbering scheme is quite different. I spoke with GP about a truck I bought listed with the Registration number, She told me for them? It...

that gold pulley is for the early serp on NA engines, it’s not used on the later serp system found on all ECV/REV trucks, they will not line up correctly on your ECV late style serp setup.

And let me, Add…the overrunning clutch is the standard, its There to alleviate strain on the generator shaft, the early serp system has an anti-jump off plate added to the PS pulley to prevent jump off, you will also notice the audible sound of belt chirping and a loud clunk when you turn off a...

The solid pulleys are for the 196xxx sn and below serp setup, you would only find them on A2 trucks…again, the TM and UOC will set you free. Also, as Far as books go….live and die by the book? Yea…I was Flight engineer, I didn’t make it a habit of deciding what was right and wrong on parts...

That is the incorrect pulley…TM’s and UOC will set you free. There is only 2 pulleys for a late style ECV/REV, the small fixed or over running clutch pulley.

So your just Willy nilly going to replace the water pump for no apparent reason? And being it’s not a REV, you’re going to replace the fan and WP without removing the radiator stack? Alrighty then….

I’ve seen a bad flange “cracked” flange on hydor booster blue line cause this issue, no visible fluid, changed out o-rings, the flange was cracked from being over tightened. Unfortunately you will need to check every o-ring and every flange connection in the PS system.

The tachometer gets its signal from the generator, so take your pick, bad Tach, bad connection, slipping serp belt…I’ve seen this happen and it’s a momentary issue, so I could care less, because I’ve seen it happen in so many trucks, I’m inclined to believe it’s normal.

star denotes a CONUS US Army HMMWV, placed on the tailgate and Hood

Pictures are worth a thousand words….

4x4 and small jack underneath is what I’ve used successfully many times…

You don’t want aluminum sliders….they don’t slide on rocks, the dig in and bend.