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I PMd him and got a reply a week a go. Said he'd ship them, still nothing.

I saw an M35A3 at Fontana that was from MS. The charge air cooler was growing! it was almost twice the size from the corrosion going on. The trans was solid white. If you touched it, pieces flaked off.

Oh, BTW, it's NOT cheap. Just the hub alone is $400.00. The Kaiser swicth is cheap, $50.00.

Not enough CFM for just an electric fan, like a transcool one...well in hot areas, Ca, Az, etc. I have an electro magnetic hub that we had on a field test engine. Same bolt pattern as the w/p , but having issues finding a fan that fits the hub that fits the shroud. As for the controller, a...

Yes, there are hubs available. Do you want one activated by the heat across the core, air over water or electric over water? I would go with air over water or electric over water. The hard part is finding a fan that fits in the shroud and on the hub. I'm workin' on it.

David is correct. What do you think it's worth? Are you handy with the tools to fix it? Haggle with the guy. Parts are easily found, you might get away with it for a very reasonable price. Check the member locator map, there might be someone close to ya that can help you out. BTW, David, nice...

They seal the same as the ones with the cork gaskets, with the little cone at the bottom. When I got my 1st set of filters, the primary was the white, re usable one. I thought it was incorrect, so Im called Norm...AVTE..and he took the time to splain me 'bout it. Then I saw a post from...

And TORQUE them per the TM. If you don't, they'll leak!

RE: Re: RE: Oil Additives... The oil is all the same, it's pumped out of the ground the same way and refined the same way. The only difference is the additive package that the various companies put in it. Same thing with gas and diesel.

IMO...snake oil. 2cents Oil companies spend Millions of $ in research and testing to make sure their oils work and don't decrease the life of the engine or whatever it's being put into. Don't you think that if there were a better way, the oil companies would market it themselves?

Just buy the filters from Saturn, Memphis...White Owl, etc. They will come with all the correct gaskets and o-rings. It's less of a headache than trying to get all the correct stuff from NAPA or the likes.

Make one of Kenny's power bleeders. They work great! http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=3439&highlight=r4x4

Pass??!! what's that? 48 all day long, have had it at 56 on downhills.

I'm gonna change my t-case uot to an air shift. Can it be dropped out from the top with a 4 by and a come along?

I saw that too. A bit far and out of my price range....tightwad! I should edit this...I'M a tightwad!!!

Mine has that one, and the hangars behind the battery box where the muffler was.

Ace, That type of filter is cleanable and re useable. It does need the cup and spring to be effective though. I have a short one made of the same material. It's supposed to be white!

That is a variable speed governer. The upper part is used for the rear throttle, the bottom is the automotive one..the one you drive it with. If the upper lever isn't locked in the front or rearward position, depending on how it's configured, the two governers fight each other. It limits RPM in...

I have the same crack too. Wonder why it only happens on the drivers side? I was just gonna make a backing plate for it, install it and let it be.

Hey Devin, That's not the PTO handle, it's a shovel! It has the old parking brake handle too.