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Almost that easy; think of what a blacksmith does - or would do in this case... Besides a 10-pound hammer and an anvil with a 30mm hole in its top face (or any suitable heavy piece of steel to support our workpiece), we need two tools: First one is a piece of 1-1/8" round steel, turned down on...

Have you ever thought about (single)365/80R20s (14.5R20)? They have the same diameter as 11.00R20s; plenty of load capacity and most probably you will never experience a flat again, when mounted on a 1pc tubeless wheel... (e.g. Mich.XZL = 43" O.D. / 3.5tons per tire @ 85 psi @ 65mph).

Yes, it takes some exercise but can be done with the differential chunk in place. After removing the front companion flange and the 6 bolts holding the rear bearing retainer the pinion/shaft should come out. If still OK, clean and reinstall the same old shim packs, or measure total thickness...

I think the OP is asking for rims to mount 11.00-20's? That size tire takes a 20x7.50-8.00" wheel. The rims you are offering are 20x11"...! G.

The torque rods are just that... they keep the axle housings from rotating. Even with NEW torque rod ends, they will NOT prevent the axles from shifting sideways. Maybe... take a look here. G.

Yes, it has an adapter ring: the smaller (transm.) side is a SAE#3, but the eng. side is an odd pattern - not a SAE #2

Also, only the 5-ton Multifuel engines came with a SAE#2 bell housing. See this old thread...

They are just too big. We might have to ask our Admin to do this.

Gimpy, I think they are all the same strenght, where the OP said his failed ??

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?96077-wheel-drawings&p=1231575&viewfull=1#post1231575 http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?69583-Perfect-Backspacing&p=845618&viewfull=1#post845618

I'm seriously looking forward to meet you two, there! :beer: G.

Yes for the beer, no for the delivery method! Better come to the rally in October; that'll come out cheaper, either way ...:):beer:

Sorry Jeff, but I have to disagree here: What you say is only possible with a drop-center wheel/rim; not a stock Deuce rim. Yes, better buy one set and find out by yourself. (I say it won't work but I may be wrong...)

Yes, std V-belts.

Correct, 20" civilian.... two flange pieces, a little over 21-1/2 inches, O.D., and lots of bolts and washers. First ring to be welded-on, 2nd one bolts to the first, clamping/squeezing the outer bead... (Or would this be something completely different from what the rock-crawlers are using?)...

Not sure how you would possibly mount a tire, after the bead-lock flange is welded in place?:? Keep in mind that the stock Deuce wheels are so-called "tapered base rims"; not semi-drop center- or even well-base rims. G.

Yes, the hubs are removable... Yes, those bearings can be greased without disassembly... You may want to visit our "Technical Manuals" section, third row "Korean War to Vietnam War Vehicles TMs", and down to "TMs for the M38". Then select "TM9-8014" which has all the info you are looking for...

Ahhhh.........just learned something... Thanks stb64 and MWMULES! After enlarging the pics the ring and welds can be seen very clearly. Never seen before... Interesting construction, or should one say improvisation? Wondering how that could last for longer than a year, without falling apart due...

You are correct about that; what you have there is an aluminum wheel with a std 10-on-11.25" bolt pattern and 8.66" pilot hole. Most MRAP wheels have the larger 335mm bolt circle, with the 281mm pilot hole. I just found out that the early model (A1) Buffalo MPCV had these wheels on the front...

I thought all of them had this reinforcement ring for the center plate?:? I just did some work on a stock, Stevens-built '67 M416, and the wheels look exactly as in the pictures posted by the OP. Same as all the other MUTT steel wheels I have seen so far. G.