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I believe that you can, but the 12 pin nato runs 24V, and civilian 7/4 runs 12V trailers typically, so either you'll need to change all the trailer bulbs to LED or use step down converters to bring down the voltage. It is very likely that the trailer had 12v bulbs installed when they changed...
for the smaller trailers (single axle like the 101 series and 105 series) most people tend to use the campers that slide into a normal pickup bed.
I've seen a few odd things. I remember seeing a camper of some type mounted on a HEMMT, and I've seen an airstream mounted onto an old single cab...
depending on how fast you use the fuel, you might want to paint the outside of the drums or cover them or something. Light getting into the fuel will greatly accelerate bacterial/algae growth in diesel.
the injection pump on these is mechanical, so there is no "charging the lines" while waiting for it to start.
The amount of fuel going through the injectors each rotation is pretty small, so all you normally see is a drip when you crack the lines, because the way it injects is overcoming...
many/most of the spare parts should be interchangeable, but not things like half shafts or other things they upgraded for the A2 series. The A2 series uses 12k shafts, the A0 and A1 use 7 or 10k shafts.
the 6.5 engine should have a little more power, the differentials will be geared a little...
I mean, we could give you a part number or two, but it's better to learn how to use the manuals for yourself. It also helps looking through the diagrams to understand how the parts actually go together, and whether there might be anything else you need.
Part numbers should be in the TM for that. I believe there may be an idler pulley that goes in that spot without the AC compressor there.
Here is a long to the technical manuals section with all the TMs for the HMMWV.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tms-for-the-m998-series-hmmwv.78861/...
no, the 804 is a 10 wire gen head, you should read earlier in this thread where it's emphatically stated this model can NOT be reconfigured to single phase.
I think the OP is just using it in 120/208 mode and drawing 2 legs of 120V off of it. (L1-N, L3-N)
To my understanding, if you set it to 240/416 and go L1 to L3 you'll have 416V, which is way higher than the 120V interters he is using will take.
For 240 single phase you'd be best off wiring it...
So unrelated to the 804, but here is some Kohler info
for the kohler yes, it likely either needs an ignition coil, or there is a chance the wire itself is shorting out. If you can run it when it's dark outside and look back there the best you can, sometimes you can actually see the spark...
that is what is being said.
The bolt pattern is 8 on 6.5. Wheels 16" diameter or larger needed.
Offset isn't that important.
Older Ford trucks, GM trucks, and many others used this bolt pattern for a long time. Most newer trucks run metric sizes, but 8 on 6.5 is still a common size to find.
the important things are the outside dimensions and hole size/distance, as well as whatever it takes to actually activate the master cylinder.
As the actuator on the inside is the same part number, the holes should match. The back of each (or however you would refer to the end that installs...
okay, found one on another site
Once again though, I am not 100% certain that this is the actual model/correct part.
https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Titan/T4846500183.html
I can't tell you for 100% certain, but several of the internal components are the same part numbers as the Titan Model 6 including the master cylinder and surge damper.
https://www.crofttrailer.com/40932-hydraulic-brake-actuator-with-3-tow-ring-8-000-lb-capacity-model-6/
EDIT: looking through...
Only caveat about pulling fuel from an auxiliary tank, you want to try to keep the aux tank fuel level below the level of the generator fill cap. From what I've read if the aux fuel level is too high it can gravity feet/siphon into the day tank on the generator and overflow the day tank.
I...
I looked up the HDT load bank. Looks like it is 3 phase only (unless there is a different one on epay I'm not seeing)
add a couple hundred more to that for the cable and plug.
even with just the 30kw unit you can always add additional load using heaters or other resistive load devices. You won't know the exact output, but the gauges on the control panel of the gen should be close enough for what you are doing.
I would say NOT to change it to the 240/416, because it would be double the voltage you are set for (the 240 is from line to neutral in this setting)
in the 120/208 setting you will still see 120V from line to neutral, the same as the Kohler. If both of your inverter/chargers are set to 120V...
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