Search results

I know my M1123 that had armor doors removed before I bought it has the strikers with the flange. The regular strikers should work just fine; the supplemental armor door is just an X-door with some sheet metal over it.

technology has come a very long way since these units were built. The alternator setup makes a lot more sense back then because that's where the technology was. I've worked on 30-40 year old generators with battery chargers that involve heavy transformer coils and electronic control boards...

I bought a cheap bracket/light combo and bolted it straight up under the back of the truck just inside the frame rail. it was this bracket. I had to drill 2 small holes in the bottom of the body cross piece (thick aluminum) but other than that plug and play...

there isn't any one list anywhere as far as I know. The HMMWV was designed and built to government specs, and AM General only sold the H1 to the public because they could make obscene amounts of money by doing so. The only parts store parts you will find are usually for the H1, and don't...

Unless something is wrong with your set, there shouldn't be any draw, so no need to disconnect (unless you have added/modified it) With a solar panel/controller hooked up there is even less reason to disconnect, unless it's a really crappy charge controller that ends up drawing power from the...

That's pretty much how every home standby generator has been set up in the past 20 years (some have the charger built into the controller, others have a separate module). The newer ones even require their own 15 amp breaker from the house on the transferred side of the panel. Usually it's no...

I didn't see any numbers in the manual, but general rule of thumb is to run no more than 1/2 the rated capacity of the generator when operating split phase (120/240) for either side of the split. As these are 26 amps of 240, that's 26 amps each side for 120V, 5 amps imbalance is very little...

here is my thread about doing it on mine https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/rear-fender-condenser-questions.195910/

The above, plus it looks like the inventory control numbers, it's an M998, and it was likely labeled as HQ-20 as the bumper number.

For the aircon I'd recommend installing the fender mount condenser, rather than the Red Dot one. If you plan to never do anything else to the truck ever again and don't mind the loss of cargo space in back, then the Red Dot is fine, but if you might do a rear cargo cover or anything like that...

1800 rpm is exactly 60 hs on a 4 pole generator (which this is). On a 2 pole gen head the engine rotates at 3600 rpms. (double the poles in the gen head, half the rpms), as long as it's a generator that is directly mounted to the engine output. rpms is rotations per minute, hertz is cycles...

To "eliminate" the algae/sludge, once it's there in the system, you aren't going to get rid of it using additives. As you kill it off it's going to go through the fuel lines and plug up your fuel filter. If it's not that bad of a contamination you can just replace the fuel filter as it plugs...

output is just a factor of voltage. The more draw on the system the lower the voltage, the more the regulator increases output to compensate. if you want to get technical, the voltage regulator controls the magnetic field inside the generator, as demand increases the strength of the field is...

So had snow the past couple days. It did better than I had hoped on the MT tires at 40psi. Plenty of ground clearance to get over the ridges left by the plows. Traction isn't that great, but I didn't expect it to be. Even with the extra weight on mine the rear end breaks free a little sooner...

Went for several drives through the snow today. First one was decent, but some idiot kept trying to straddle the center of the highway at 20mph when people were trying to pass him, he almost ran me off the road (and if I had been in something smaller I'd likely have some damage to the left side...

Ether is usually discouraged in this style of engine. Engines with pre-combustion chambers and glow plugs can become severely damaged if ether is used, even if used sparingly.

When I last looked at the TrailworthyFab site, when you order the PVC beadlocks they want to know the exact tire you are planning to run in order to make them the correct size. The rubber beadlocks have a little squish to them, where a PVC or other hard plastic won't, so sizing will be a little...

I thought that ATF was more for cleaning sticking injectors and stuff like that, but yes, it has a lot of detergents and will burn just fine in a diesel engine.

yes, some are incompatible, and in a lot of jobs it does matter because of wear and pressure and what not. Here we are talking about a set of gears that turns a couple dozen times under relatively light conditions, so it's a lot less critical. below are the specs/features of that particular NSN...

grease type doesn't matter as much as just having grease in it. Pretty much any decently thick grease that will stay in the gearing is good, such as any NLGI 2 grease.