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You have a one in 400 chance to get them all hooked up correctly without even trying to trace a single one. If a couple of things do work afterwards, even if a switch ends up with a different function, you might get an honorary journeyman electrician license.

While I haven't had the need to fight with the wring yet, I can relate to the arthritis. A home made harness with aftermarket gauges would likely be my plan of attack if I had to go to war behind the dash. But that's because I'm concerned with function, not originality.

Whoa! This from the guy who painted his SEE? But, yes, the list of things that needs attention on my (formerly) parts SEE is getting somewhat long - and that's to get in mechanically decent shape. It was, after all, bought as a running but not fully functional SEE. That some things (like the...

I'll have to take a peek on the parts SEE, it already has a 1,200 rpm high idle. And it leaks a fair amount of air, so now I know that the switch won't do anything until there's enough air pressure. Actually, it seemed like the idle went up a bit with the air pressure. Another revelation was...

Thanks!

Oh, now there are plenty of starters available. Where were you when I had to buy one? Of course, it's still in the box - it turned out to be the cut-off switch that's tired. So if you're not planning on buying a SEE for each one, how much are they?

From what I recall reading, to get the "test" button to do something, the light switches have to be in a certain position, the clutch depressed, and maybe it also requires a certain moon phase. Basically, I gave up on it. With the dash light on, my (green) PTO light comes on...when the PTO is...

You just gave me another idea. I rarely use the high rpm setting when running the backhoe, since it doesn't seem to need all that much to do most jobs. Usually I set the hand throttle to about 1,200 and run on that. Now I'll be looking into adjusting the rpm to about 1,400 to 1,600 with the...

Thanks, Gadget! You really helped me out with that one, twice. Now I know what there is to work with in my pursuit of running a (front mounted) hydraulic snow blower off the rear hydraulics. Also, you saved me from trouble shooting the low rpm on the crane - apparently it's supposed to be only...

While looking for hydraulic info, I came across a mention (somewhere) that the high idle is through an air operated gizmo. You mention "no air pressure", so if you really don't have any, the high idle setup wouldn't work.

Speaking of needing help, I've spent hours now trying to find out what the flow rate and pressure for the rear hydraulic system is. I'm hoping to run a (front mounted) hydraulic snow blower off of the PTO driven pump, but as mentioned, I've failed miserably in finding those specs. Any idea...

It could be that your cut-off switch (by the loader levers) is about as good as the ones in my SEE and the HMMH. Every now and then nothing lights up when turning the switch on in the HMMH, but it always helps to turn it on a second time. In the SEE the switch probably got wounded when I used a...

I was hoping you'd say that, MrSEE. Now I won't feel guilty about not filling the filter bowl.

I'm the first one to fill filters whenever possible, to minimize the time without oil pressure. However, at least my SEEs and the HMMH takes an agonizing six to seven seconds before showing pressure on the gauge when they've been sitting for a while. Does filling the filter make a noticeable...

I'd love to have one, too. Seems that someone could make a few bucks by coming up with, and selling, those schematics. Laminated would be nice, but not essential.

One way to save time (and the planet, if you're so inclined) is to jump the terminals on the temp sensor, making the fans come on that way. It's under the front "box" on the cooler. Takes a 9/16" wrench on the side and 7/16" deep socket for the bolt on top. I may end up putting a manual override...

You caught me off guard, otherwise I would've said yes.

My cylinders work the opposite way. They may not leak initially, but once I have the wind in my face...

You may want to start with the two fuse panels under the hood, to make sure that all fuses are indeed making contact. Then there are electrical connections on the valves behind the cab, which I've never messed with. Yet, anyway.

Not sure if you mean that you have no air pressure in the brake system, or if it's only the rear hydraulics that won't work now. Perhaps the most obvious would be if you didn't engage the PTO. If it's engaged, I'd start looking for electrical gremlins in the rear system.