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Pitpawten, have you considered a modern gear reduction starter? Less$$, faster crank and much smaller!

Basically, yes. Singled out, you run the rims dish out on flipped hubs. Search for flipped hubs and postings by Gringeltaube on why that is advisable. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

I have a standard 150 psi valve on the shelf. I have not plumbed it in, yet. Golly, I do not want to run out of Spring projects!! Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

None on my truck. In case of governor or unloader failure it would continue to build pressure until the weakest point in the air system blew. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Reminds me to tee in the 150psi safety blowoff valve. The Deuce compressor doesn't have one. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Nchittendon, she may just have a frozen governor from a bit of humidity in the line. Running the engine until the compartment warms up would do the trick. You did not mention any weird noises, so the compressor is most likely just running unloaded. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

I bet you are glad you checked that rear main!! Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

I am using the Keeper KWA 14650 snatch block. It has a 6in pulley diameter. Suitable for up to 3/4 in wire rope. 6t WLL and rated for 36,000lbs. Similar models available from Smittybuilt and MileMarker. Nice is that it weighs 9 lbs. I carry a military snatch block as well which is a great...

With a stock LDT you just need "a turbo" that can boost a little, as was mentioned above. Paining over which turbo to use and whether one is so much better than the other is almost pointless because while the turbo contributes something, it is not a whole lot. With a stock LDT, all you need is...

I have been there. I replaced a complete clutch setup that had about half its life left because I had the transmission out. I did that for the reasons mentioned above - I do not want to have to drop the tranny again for no other reason than doing a clutch. Flywheel resurfaced, new rear main...

Schau Dir doch mal diese Bilder an: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/fuel-pump-not-working-and-how-i-troubleshot-it.29180/ These pictures might help in identifying the parts.

Humans can make mistakes...and it is good when they own up to them. I bet that new motor will be sealed tightly!

I cleaned the rubber tank strap liners -SOS pad worked well and did not appear to damage the rubber. Needs patience and elbow grease, though, which allows one to come up with plenty of words to describe the person that painted the rubber in the first place.

It's not really a sealed unit when the green cap is off. Imagine this being driven in the sandbox with the green cap missing for a couple of weeks. It would be full of sand... Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Olden day horse traders turned car salesmen used to pour sawdust and wood chips into worn transmissions to stop the chatter and make them feel "tight" again. I'd really have trust issues with THAT. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Also factor in the ape operator problem. A solid lever with solid linkage operated by a 250 lbs moron can impart forces able to cause expensive breakage. A cable or air operated shifter limits (but not eliminates) the damage the ape can cause. The quest for idiot proof systems causes nature...

You may need the driveshaft for a multifuel as yours may be the drive shaft for the gas engine, depending on which vehicle the winch came from. I remember that there is a clearance issue with the gas driveshaft. People that have a w/w Gasser might chime in to a picture! Sent from my SM-G950W...

That is a fine piece of service work. The rear springs look like new.

"No problem". Never let your truck hear that! ;-) Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Dipstick, you just had to say the last bit. You couldn't help it. Oh, well. Those two words....