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Yolner, that definitelu s*cks. Our fine folks here would have you teeter on the edge of not being able to safety the truck when rust jacking is that evident on frame components. That means, one way or another, it has to be fixed. The method described above to get the volume of rust out appears...
You could also simply solder the defect in the radiator. Get the coolant below the level of the hole, dry it, rough it with a bit of sand paper and solder with tin and an iron or a butane torch. Holds for years and a day.
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"...but I also see them pounding on some thing that are stuck and my heart reals out like it’s gonna vibrate off the stands! "
it is very unlikely that you will move a 6t truck sitting solidly on stands by using a hammer that you are still able to lift. Of more concern is the ground your jack...
Correct. Unlike a car, the jack on the truck goes right under the axle housing. It will lift the tire off the ground within a couple inches. That's all you need. Nevertheless, think safety and use an an axle stand or stacked 4x4 or 6x6 pieces.
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I wanted to buy one but the government desk jockeys decided to sell perfectly good trucks as branded "irrepairable" to make sure they would never be register-able again.
What a waste.
I had my eyes on the engineering version with the LWB and Palfinger crane. Oh well.
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Must be an "Alaska Special". What's inside the "can"?
Maybe one can connect it to a hot water hose and it works like a small heat exchanger to keep the coolant warm-ish? Even so, how does the hot water circulate?
Could it be a coolant quick drain? At the end of the work day, open the big cap...
The locking device looks great. I remember seeing a pic of a steel protection plate that wrapped the bottom and sides of the stock tank. It was intended to protect the tank from rock damage but would probably work to prevent punching a drain hole into it as well.
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Well, the search turned up quite a few threads. Happy reading.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/i-started-widening-my-wheels-today-tonight-this-morning.103289/
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/workin-on-my-widened-rims.32965/...
Elk1111 may have a point...when I showed up with my Qeen Lola I found myself doing a kitchen reno very shortly thereafter. When I obtained my 8v71 Detroit Kenworth this year I did the bathroom (just finished). There is a pattern here of in kind retribution!
Better watch out!
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Woo hoo! Congrats! Nothing like jumping into an unknown Deuce and driving it on a long drive that hopefully ends at home!
Truck looks good...enjoy wrenching and getting to know your Deuce! Do you know anything about its past?
The fuel fired heater is a nice upgrade. Does it work? It probably...
I fixed the link I posted; old links sometimes do not work, but you can easily translate them into the new format and it will open!
Here we go:
Post #15 here: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/blown-head-gasket.40801/
Note that the real interest is for the picture of the gasket with the...
Welcome and there ia a ton of info here on this site. In short, the military went through several iterations of head gaskets until they found one, and torque specs, that they felt holds up better than the previous ones.
The multifuel engines are all high compression engines and that is hard on...
As the harmonic balancer gets old, the rubber hardens, it no longer absorbs/cushions energy pulses and knowledgeable people suspected (here on the forum) that this contributes to the "mysterious" crank shaft breakage that a few engines have been found to have. I have been thinking about...
The army seems to disagree, at least in the TM9-2815-210-34-2-1 Maintenance of the multifuel engine : "1-11. METRIC SYSTEM. The equipment/system described herein is nonmetric and does not require metric common or special tools. Therefore, metric units are not supplied...
I never saw a conclusive answer. It appears to be a straight NPT thread, called a "Boss" thread, used in hydraulics and oil drain plugs. A 7/8-18 was mentioned FWIW. I used the metric plugs with teflon tape and never had an issue. I know they are not the "right" thread, just "close enough".
It is less about the fuel getting in and making the oil overflow, it is more about the fuel diluting the oil, thinning it to where it gushes out through a seal that would otherwise still have been ok.
The OP said that he lost eight quarts of engine oil over 160 miles (that is a 3-4h drive). That makes it unlikely that it is gear oil from the transmission.
The concern about fuel getting into the oil is something to check, though, before dropping the tranny etc. When engine oil becomes...
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