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Mmm with combat rims! Thanks for posting

Federal Military Parts has pricy rivet kits for attaching the supplemental armor.

Glass is 20x14. 3/8 thick for basic, 5/8 thick for armor.

Looks about right to me. These engines "rolled coal" before it was cool. It will clear up some as you run nice clean fuel through it.

Can’t answer your question but possibly McMaster-Carr has every imaginable length rivet available and it tells you which to use for a given combined material thickness.

I think you caught it in time to be able to fix it. Cab swaps are no fun as you have to thread the cab over the long steering column from way up high.

This was a problem for the Army, apparently if you leave the accessory switch on for hours, fuel will get past the injectors and cause the dreaded hydrostatic lock. That’s why good soldiers were supposed to crank the engine with the fuel control pulled out at first and then push it in after a...

Ah but the tractor truck in the pics is none other than the mighty White 666, WWII 6 ton 6x6. Same as my avatar.

Thanks for the pictures. Deuce looks unmolested but needs a lot of rust removal and repaint. Your 715 looks great! Are the 666 trucks in your picture for sale? Is this yard in France?

As you can see from the pictures, once you remove all the armor, roof etc you are left with the same basic HMMWV body since 1985. No clue why they are pulling the air cleaner.

Looks like it’s for the wrecker. Looks pretty useless.

Those are just flat safety glass, have your local glass shop cut you some out.

Back it up, should be no track droop on top, right behind the drive sprocket.

For sure it’s junk but that won’t stop someone from paying $3500 for it …

$1500. Needs a lot to fix it.

If you dig around on this site, it has been said that the wavy spring can be omitted. I can’t verify that. Probably can omit the screen too if you keep your oil clean.

Not sure how to adjust the b pillar other than something violent. Maybe you can put shims under the leafs if they are not flush anymore.

Yes. Clean both the crank and balancer bore to bright and shiny and grease the crank and heat the balancer.

It’s not supposed to have 16.5. Supposed to have 16.

Your injection pump is dying, get it remanufactured. The cut wires on the filter are inconsequential, they are for the diagnostic connector. The alternator might be getting intermittent sense voltage, that is the feed in the small gauge wire.