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Pull the bearings. You now have grease/gear oil/brake cleaner contamination down in the CTIS seal areas of the hubs and there's plenty of crap still in there beyond the bearings that you will never get out with an aerosol can. Not a great way to button it up. Pull it all off and clean it...

One of the many benefits of the later trucks was the realization that the excessive driveshaft angles and speeds caused vibration and problems with fasteners all over the engine coming loose. Alternator bolts back out, the bracket for the air compressor and power steering hydraulic pump will...

Yeah I imagine they measured it with it fully compressed. Those measurements are from the part number specifications.

From what we can tell the A1R LMTV rear axle is literally the same housing as the MTV intermediate axle. It's got slightly different guts with no power divider and the output where the rear driveshaft would otherwise be located is blanked off. The TM refers to this axle as the "top feed"...

Don't trust that junk. The solder joints inside the potted box of doom hanging off the fore end of the unit can go and allow the wimpy ring terminal protuberances to loose contact internally. Or the diodes and tiny wires go to hell - often this can result in half of the unit flip-flopping and...

Yup. I blew tire on the interstate and spent about 3 hours in the back of the parking lot of an LA Fitness (upscale neighborhood) changing it out. Had the sheriff stop and ask if I needed any help. I said nope got everything I need but thank you sir! They asked if my truck was a Unimog and I...

I did avoid California on my trip. For a lot of reasons and on my list at the time was potential Imperial Entanglements but I suspect the more rural areas would be alright just like it is everywhere else. Cops are people too (so I'm told) and the vast majority of them are going to see you and...

You think that, but probably not. If you want the best mileage and if you don't yet have ECO hubs on the truck then you'll want to travel at 50 mph. Driving a bone stock M1078 - most law enforcement is going to assume you are military unless you demonstrate otherwise or blatantly break the law...

I've done it enough and seen it done enough that it really wouldn't concern me. Definitely rinse it well and the final rinse could be RO water or distilled water or whatever if you like. And then apply a fast evaporating electronics cleaner and finish it off with Deoxit on all the connections...

Put ECO hubs on it and you'll be much safer in terms of driveshaft vibration with the older low pinion rear differential. To be fair you have an early A0 truck and the early M35's weren't any better (considerably worse actually) in terms of reliability and teething issues. You have the A2...

Why not simplify the operation and just drive it with the factory wheel and swap it when you get home? You may not want to swap it after some experience. In military terms what you are doing is called a "Recovery Mission". This is where you get the unit back to base and all bets are off as to...

I see these "wood" abominations regularly on hot rods and resto-mods that come through my shop. Without fail they look like an absolute dumpster fire in a few years. Highly inappropriate for anything you are going to drive without white gloves and keep in a garage. They scratch and chip and get...

I don't know for sure but it's likely metric and so probably the same since the stock wheel is really just a Steyr wheel from Germany. I'm honestly with Third on this one though. I wouldn't go down in steering wheel diameter. Even for a big dude like myself - I like to be able to one hand palm...

It's done quite regularly in the vintage computer world. There really is no issue if it's done carefully and allowed to dry completely before being powered up. Plain water and soap for a few minutes isn't going to cause even a fraction of the corrosion in the short term that the last 20 years of...

Those are where the devices would mount *if* you had them. You don't have either of those things. You don't want to delete your ABS control module and your air-over-hydraulic pump unless you are planning to go full manual or electric-over-hydraulic.

If you really want it CLEAN then you remove it and wash it in soap and water with a soft brush then allow to dry in the sun. Apply Deoxit to the connections. Anything thick like dielectric grease will just trap dirt. After the cleaning inspect all the solder joints with high powered...

Flashing green on the voltage regulator is good.

This is typical. Unless it happens to be a part used in the civilian world (and don't think that means engine and transmission parts - only *sometimes* is that the case) it very often will carry a part number that is mandated by the government to be distributed only to authorized channels - this...

The electronic manuals don't have page numbers. I just searched for "engine mount" and the applicable section came up under Maintenance Instructions -> Field-Maintenance Instructions -> Engine Maintenance Work Packages -> ENGINE FRONT RESILIENT MOUNT AND MOUNTING BRACKET REPLACEMENT But...

TM shows lifting the engine to take the weight off the mounts and enough to get to the fasteners but doesn't require disconnecting anything else at all which means the engine isn't moving very far. It does caution that the engine weighs 1500 lbs so plan accordingly. A gantry setup and a chain...