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Glad you got it! I was just about to suggest you revisit the check ball again, but you already did and were already successful! Good job! The check valve can sometimes appear good, but still not flow enough to keep the engine running. It is curious why it's filling with air... ?? The stuck...

You can just go to any automotive parts store and get a 30A 1/4" dia. X 1 1/4" long 250V ( standard ) automotive fuse. Typical AGC series fuse....

Free electric stove left out for the trash works for me as both a load bank and a powder coating oven!

That's quite a story! congratulations on getting to the bottom of it. Who would ever have thought you had a hollowed out pump with no Guts in it! But you were definitely on the right track investigating the metering pump! Good job... and good investigation work.

can you post a picture of the pump as well? Tool marks don't sound nice.. maybe we will notice something else wrong. Bent pin, stuck plunger etc.... 3 shims sounds about right and should at least be in the ballpark. Out of curiosity how much do you loosen the pump before it runs better? are we...

Dunno... The shim pack determines the injection timing. I have seen sets with too thick of a shim pack cause white / gray smoke due to late timing and cold ( lack of fire ) exhaust, but I don't think missing shims ( early timing ) would cause black smoke, but maybe it does?? Alex moved the...

Not sure if the 804 is the same as an 802/803 but I had an 803 doing the exact same thing and the problem ended up being the short circuit / overload relay being defective. Contactor would close as long as I held the switch, but opened when switch was released. The TM should explain how to...

Out of curiosity up in Wisconsin, do you keep the machine outside or in some kind of shed or garage?

Never saw those before, but looks interesting. I've used 1500w high temp silicone drum heating belts to heat spray foam resin drums in the winter, this looks like a short section of the same material with adhesive added, so I see no reason why it wouldn't work well.

I was also about to ask about the brass T-fitting, but sounds like you solved that problem!

Ah, good to hear you didn't use ether! Now, I must say, I'm having a hard time believing that a single dead or weak cyl. on a 4 cyl. is causing the motor to not build RPM with no load and causing the black smoke. Have you checked for restrictions in the air inlet and air cleaner? I would also...

Hi Alex, yes I was able to open your files. First off, hide those cans of starting fluid! If Guy sees them he will ream you an new one! ;) Seriously though.... don't use starting fluid on that machine. If you have to use anything, use WD-40 or carb clean, anything less volitile than ether...

It could also be as simple as a metering pump adjustment problem too. When running under no load the internal fuel rack just barely opens the metering pumps. All 4 pumps need to be synchronized or you will be getting inconsistent fuel from 1 cyl to the next. Before swapping out a pump I think we...

Yup, that should be correct. Just fire it up and verify your voltage gage is reading 240ish.

Yes, you want to be in 120 / 240V mode which should be flat down and AM/VM switch set on the single phase L1 L3 position approximately 3:00 on the switch.

I would seriously try loosening the bolts and jiggling the switch , working to the right and attempt to get it so the flat is down. Looks like you already used a "ViceGrip" style knob! I have a spare switch I can sell you BUT believe me, swapping out that switch is no small task!

I believe you are in 208 3 phase. You can verify you setting AM/VM switch to the 3 phase 208 setting and see if gage reads 208 or use a DMM and see if you have power on L2. If you go from L2 to either L1 or L3 you should get around 208 on your AC volt setting.

I believe you are most likely correct in your assumption about the injector, you probably have an injector stuck open, but need more investigation. By "adjust the injector" I bet you are talking about the metering pump on the side of the motor with the rubber lines going in and steel lines out...

I can check one and see where the flat corresponds to. It may actually be in the correct place for 120/240. If so, leave it and be done with it, but I will check position later today.

Are you able to throw around 50% load on it and see if it dies quicker or slower? I still recommend testing fuel pressure when it acts up. Any smoke when it starts to act up? Another test could be to leave radiator cap loose and run it. I'm curious if you have a head gasket starting to leak...