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Correct - I meant 7.8. My bad on the Typo. The ring and pinion is 3.9

Exactly half the current ratio of 7.8 which is 3.9. 3.07 gears with the reduction hubs give you 6.14

Are your recorded acceleration times starting out in 2nd or manually selecting 1st? How is the acceleration from a stop starting out in 2nd? What generation is your truck and what HP/TQ are your currently running? Due to the unfortunate aerodynamics of these chassis (and mine is a 1079 so...

The Meritor ring gear is 11.70" in diameter. For a comparison - Meritor rates our axles at about 14,700 lbs for the front, and 15,000 lbs for the rear. About 7.5 ton's per axle. For the non-armored trucks in civilian ownership, most will be running in the range of 10,000 to 13,000 per axle...

Exactly this. Unless you happen to have some 4,000,000 SPF sunscreen it's likely to be a REAL BAD day. Also the roads will be impassably clogged with things that aren't EMP capable. Best bet is a backpack full of gear and a dual-sport motorcycle with a carburetor. Unless you are ALREADY way...

The 3126b and C7 engine wiring harnesses are wrapped in woven stainless mesh. All DOD assets are required to conform to MIL-STD-461 and subsequent revisions since 1967 which governs their emissions and their ability to function in environments where large amount of EMI and RFI are present (such...

If you want to do local pickup if you are in Portland you could stop by my shop and pay cash or card, etc. Or I'll be accepting PayPal for shipping USPS flat-rate once I get the logistics of that figured out and which boxes and such are going to fit the job.

The mounts are shipping from the manufacturer tomorrow morning! Shipping from the manufacturer is going to add $1.50 per mount, so $6 per set. They are coming from the other side of the USA to me (OR) so I'm guessing at least a week transit time. Then I'll have pics of the final products, etc.

Yours have probably done what mine did and the lever at the motor has slipped on the splines. The motor is under the PDP and you can loosen the nut and move the lever on the splined taper drive on the motor to line up it's parking location with the wipers at their lowest point. Mine the nut was...

Oh yeah - plan to have money to fix stuff. My truck is a 2008 with 2750 miles on it (when acquired - almost 11k now) and still had 2008 tires - I got about 8k miles out of the tires before one blew out. A friend of mine has a 2003 that came with 2003 rubber and his blew out sooner than mine...

What year/generation are you looking at? A0, A1, A1R, etc? Generally speaking, automatic transmission engagement should be positive and that isn't necessarily a bad thing. You want them to lock in to gear and not slip - slippage = wear. So a "lurch" isn't unexpected on the earlier (A0)...

If they are the same rating. But a commonly available blade fuse will work just as well. I bet there's a few laying around for the having right now.

No problem. If those circuit breakers are open and don't stay reset you can try swapping them with regular fuses - if those burn out it is likely there is a short circuit somewhere. If they are set and still no heater action please reply back and we can continue further with the diagnostic flow...

The factory solution to all these problems was to replace the "lock washers" with Nord-Lock washers. They are the only thing that works for this application. Put them on ANYTHING mounted to the engine. Starter, Alternator, Pump support bracket, etc. And balance the driiveshafts.

Also - the manuals for these trucks are electronic and the troubleshooting for these systems is "interactive" and walks you through each step - is there someone your relative could talk to in maintenance to possibly get access to the manual for his truck? This level of troubleshooting is not...

Heated Transparent Armor is 24v. Under the passenger kick-panel is where you will find the control module and the circuit breaker module for the system. Remove the panel and the repair manual states the first step is to try resetting circuit breakers CB10X (position 10) and CB19X (position 19)...

Mine is a Gen IV panel on an A1R. 3700SP transmission.

My truck spent it's entire life in the desert of Kuwait and El-Paso and my transmission panel looks/functions perfect. The seats were absolutely destroyed as was a lot of other rubber bits but that panel looks great. It really doesn't seem to be an issue honestly.

You will have to use something really tolerant of heat because inside the cab in the sun the temps can get way beyond what will warp and melt PLA. You would need to use something like ABS but printing with that is a little more tricky and really should be done with an enclosed printer to limit...

I agree - wouldn't spend a dime fixing the 100A alternator. They are undersized to begin with. If you had the 260A it's a different story. Go to a commercial 24v and 24v to 12v voltage converter and don't look back. Or do the conversion to the 200A HMMWV alternator if you feel you need the...