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In my case it's not so clear cut. My truck is 14 years old and has under 10k miles on it. Much less than 30 and very low mileage. Again the benefits to the end user depend on the intended use. Personally I like the idea of a low pressure system.

Not interested in lowering the coolant temp. The benefit is longevity, corrosion resistance, and lack of system pressure due to high boiling point.

There's also such things as waterless, lifetime antifreeze: https://www.evanscoolant.com/ It can't cause corrosion because it contains no water...... Jay Leno uses the stuff. I'm considering it for my LMTV actually. The boiling point is so high you can pull the radiator cap at full operating...

Shouldn't be necessary. My 2008 MVT Goodyear tires rounded back out and stopped vibrating after daily driving my truck for about 6 months. Smooth as glass now. I would say that anyone with "balancing" issues is most likely fighting out-of-round tires and hasn't driven their truck enough to...

I googled the NSN of the AA02516 and found the listing with the specifications including the dimensions and the pressure rating. I'm guessing that the mil spec unit probably has different materials used for the seals, etc. Just like they use silicone for much of the hoses on these trucks while...

The parts reference spreadsheet only lists the Stant AA02516 - this being a military part number without any cross-reference. Doing some digging around it appears that a Stant 10230 is a proper fit and is stocked at nearly every auto parts store in the USA. Autozone part number 7016 (it's a...

Thanks! It took many months but I got there in the end. I have my suspicions that this fault may have been responsible for the truck never being maintained and eventually being discarded with under 2k miles on it. Everything on the truck seemed to be original from 2008. Best guess is the truck...

Yes the entire truck including the headlights are LED. Other than the headlights which I upgraded to the heated TruckLite LED's, the truck was built with 100% LED's from the factory with the exception of the lights on the inside of the van. Those were 24v incandescent aviation bulbs - I swapped...

I checked the amperage output from the alternator this afternoon. Fully charged batteries. With everything on the draw was about 12 amps on the 14v side and somewhere between 6 and 12 amps on the 28v side. That's with all the 1079 24v lighting turned on, service drive and panel bright engaged on...

Ah yes it is voltage based on the LBCD cut off..... the LBCD itself is *rated* to handle 200a but as you pointed out the charge current doesn't pass through it so that's probably not much of a limitation in practice. The grid heater doesn't seem to bother the 260a alt much. The voltage drop is...

I'm considering a pair of these. They come with shunts and are 12/24v and they are relatively inexpensive. One for each side of the 260A alternator. My main need beyond monitoring the draw on the stupidly expensive alternator is to ascertain how much overhead I have to work with on the 24v side...

Correct. To expand on that - 1st gear has to be manually selected and is only available in "MODE" where the center diff is locked in, etc. These trucks are 6 speeds in normal on-road operation starting in 2nd gear.

Here's the FMTV A1 LSAC AC system drawings: Item #3 is the suction hose (low side) from the evaporator to the compressor. This connects to a 90 degree pipe with a support bracket that fits into the back of the compressor. The low side charge fitting is part of the fitting on the back of the...

Aw man. Totally would and I have all the manuals for every model but can't get away - have my shop to run and have to take care of my elderly mother. Good luck - hit me up if you need manuals and diagrams, etc.

Likely an issue for those that need inspections. Luckily I have no such requirement.

One of the wires for the dash buzzer routinely gets disconnected and taped up because whoever did it doesn't want to listen to the low air warning buzzer. Especially on the civilian side since most of us are keenly aware of the pressure in our air tanks and don't need the idiot buzzer.

It really doesn't matter...... it's a lot like an incandescent bulb - you need current flow. Same with the heater - if you want heat you need flow through the core. The direction of flow is pretty much irrelevant. It's just a radiator located inside the cab.

Wow. Such a mess. You can delete the polarity protection device if you don't believe you are silly enough to connect the batteries incorrectly like PVT Snuffy. GD

You can use the blower hose adapters from the heater unit so don't worry about that. You will have to bend the tabs a bit and crush them oval to get them in but it does work and in fact I had to do this on the passenger side due to the proximity of the transmission control unit. I looked in...

My only concern with that is pests climbing up into the unit. Have you called Red Dot?