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This thread has some good info on what may be occurring. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/lmtv-1078-spare-tire-lift-cylinder-stuck-again.207474/

Please enlighten as to how the ground was incorrectly connected. I've been helping a member with similar problems.

Probably better off calling an equipment/school bus scrap yard or a shop that rebuilds air compressors. The gear is used on many CAT engines.

Caterpillar part number 7C3179

This kind of foolishness is why reprogramming the module is the way to go. You can tell it what to do instead of trying to fool it into doing sort-of what you want. 🤦‍♂️ As evidenced by you being able to hit 80 psi in the tires it shouldn't be a concern even with the warning about the A0's...

85 for highway and leave the others alone. Make sure you have newish tires if you are going to use any setting other than highway. Anything over 10 years old just don't deflate them and start looking for replacements. These tires are VERY flexible and designed to run low pressure (at low speed)...

Will can do them. So can I and several other people. There are no limitations to the settings. You can program any setting to any pressure you want, and program the speed lockouts to any speed you want. Within the ranges supported by the controller anyway - the settings are not specific to...

You can program the CTIS to whatever HWY pressure you want or have it done by a member of the forum. I set mine to 85 psi. You just need a J1939 adapter and a laptop - the Dana diagnostic software is free on their web site.

Not actually. It's a purpose made storage for that specific location/installation.

Interesting - yeah that is the stock mudflap and mount just like is on my own truck.

Has anyone encountered one of these?

Generally the governors are set to 125 on these trucks. Looks a little low. Get an actual Haldex one that's adjustable. The Bendix one's that are non-adjustable suck. I had a Bendix non-adjustable unit on there for a while and it was causing rapid cycling when cold. After a short drive it would...

If you haven't rebuilt your dryer do so immediately. Mine had never been serviced and it destroyed my air compressor.

If this was my truck - I would pull the pan and check the pump condition. Given this numbers and the knowledge of the change in pump design..... I would have to see for myself. Looks to be a fairly easy job.

Currently using an Amsoil heavy duty bypass filtration system: https://www.amsoil.com/p/heavy-duty-bypass-system-bmk30/ But I am intrigued by the kit that Suprman has. I think I shall ask him about that one. I am a sucker for mil spec stuff. :rolleyes:

These solenoids are known for having weak coils and being unable to actuate properly. I would replace it after checking for power at full operating pressure, etc.

Check for 24v/ground at the solenoid connector. When the solenoid is de-energized it does not send air to the fan clutch - the line to the fan clutch is vented on the solenoid's vent port. It has to receive power to send air to the clutch and disengage the fan. So you may still have an...

Ok PERFECT. That's all exactly correct based on our schematics - Ronmar's even has the numbers correct that are typoed on my older diagram. We still need to verify that K1 doesn't have welded contacts though so we need to check for continuity with it out of the circuit. Pull 157 off of terminal...

Ok. Can you get a better picture of the terminals on the K1 (left relay in the picture above)? And I want you to fill out this form: Left (K1) Relay: 30: (list wire numbers) 87: " Right (K2) Relay: 30: " 87: "

Well I don't *think* it's that one but that's an interesting schematic - that looks newer than what I have as matching my truck. Also never seen these 24v "bussbars" it references. Here's the sheet data on mine (dated 08-29-2008 - the JPEG format compression has made it less readable than it is...