Search results

This system was discussed a lot many years ago with lots of good information. Use search term "SECM".

Everything associated with the vacuum modulator: The vacuum pump, the hoses, the transmission vacuum regulator valve on the injection pump, or the modulator on the transmission. If all this works perfect, check for stripped plastic governor gear.

Do you have a winch? That’s what that is for.

Those are oil analysis sample points?

Vintage Power Wagons has everything you might need, might even have the nose.

1079's have to ride on this type of trailer. This trailer is "specialized equipment" and they don't usually take loads on the cheap.

Engine and bell housing should be gloss ANSI 61 gray. Engine accessories should be gloss black. Transmission and transfer, same color as chassis. Good luck with the project, $10k is just enough for parts for a high quality restoration.

Which LMTV? 1079s have to go by themselves on double drop deck trailers which bring the price you were quoted. 1078's can go on single drop deck trailers and can have other cargo onboard to cut the rate in half.

I don't understand your question. As the gear cases get hot with operation, the air inside expands and is expelled through the tube vent system. When the truck cools off, a ever so slight vacuum is created inside the gear cases which draws air back in.

One other way to do this would be to find a junk 96-2000 6.5 with automatic in a wrecking yard and pull the timing cover and whatever attaches to the crank (reluctor?) and transplant it for a factory set up.

The gear cases are connected together with the black poly hose, ending up at a vent filter behind your engine air cleaner housing. This works great until you get vampire syndrome and everything gets filled with transmission fluid. See post 14, Action reminded me the vent line DOES NOT end up...

Blocked at the hubs is normal, you are pressurizing a closed gear case by doing so. I would splice the cut line and go on with life.

The surge from out of sync connection will cause blown fuse or breaker to trip.

That unnecessary steel strap is way too close to the terminals!!!!

You need to look at the Vintage Power Wagon website, they have AVMs for $200

Title service. Will have to start from nothing. Does your state have "bonded titles"? That's how I do it here.

The trans controller HAS a neutral safety switch in it, in the VIM box.

I would start at the WTEC contol, any codes? Maybe what you are doing is fooling the contol by getting the engine started before the contol boots up and inhibits cranking because of something causing DNS.

Does it go into gear? Do you have the proper relays plugged into the sockets?

What year? The transmission controller has to close an interlock circuit to permit cranking. The box that does that is called a "VIM". They are different depending on year. You might want to look at the troubleshooting diagram in the technical manual, which is very helpful with this issue...