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benhasajeep, I followed your advice and used a 3/4 in drill bit.
I have also resigned myself to the fact that the universe does not want me to do this power steering conversion.
When I started drilling (brand new 3/4 in drill bit, new Ridgid drill, cutting fluid, sloooow speed) I noticed...
Drained coolant, took radiator out, turned upside down so I could solder the stupid hole I made. About the size of a 9mm bullet hole. Put back, refilled. No leak when static. When engine warm, a pin head drop of coolant just hangs there underneath the repair. No "leak" or constant drip. Yup...
Began the install of the Waterloo power steering.
Murphy was asleep for most of it, but then I discovered that the radiator fan shroud was quite loose after trimming. "No problem", I thought. "I just take my welder and tack it to the radiator bracket down there".
Problem was...that was not a...
(courtesy of ABN173)
Then there is the stuff the Wrangler crowd likes: https://www.carid.com/2018-jeep-wrangler-armor-protection/fab-fours-vicowl-windshield-protection-878862935.html
Makeshift gun trucks used a steel plate that covered the complete door. It was mounted with brackets grabbing...
If you run duals on the rears you do not really need to carry a spare. Just take one of the rears if you need to replace a tire up front to get you where you need to go.
The in-cab video has great sound. I can hear the knock. Darn it. No easy fix with a couple Viton O-rings.
A few things to consider.
You can pull the heads, identify the damaged piston and liner, replace and button it up. And hope that was all there was to it. You will spend 350-500 bucks...
Sounds like there is still air trapped in the system, if you do not have any fluid leaking. My suspicion would be in the air pack. You can definitely bleed the brakes as you describe, but I find using a power bleeder is much more likely to be successful with 1 (-2) rounds of bleeding. You...
Start, let idle, check manifold at each cylinder, back and forth. You will see the temps rising at each cylinder - unless it is not firing. At those, the manifold will stay noticeably cooler. It will all warm up somewhat but it will not get the same heat as with an operating cylinder.
I would...
Oerthedge21, your suspicions have not yet been proven wrong. Still on the rule-out list. Does your oil smell of diesel fuel and appear to have thinner viscosity? How does it drip off the stick? Motor oil should "stretch" and coat the dipstick. Oil with diesel in it tends to "bead" more...
Well, thinning out the oil because of one of the internal fuel leaks (well known....do a search....FDC, hydraulic head, flame heater are the most common culprits) would certainly make it get louder....less lubrication, less "cushioning", more blowby. If it is only that, it is a few O-rings and...
Oh, man....I hear you....just want to drive the thing, not do brain surgery on it. I sure got there two years ago when I got to do a surprise engine rebuild.
On the plus side, you have the tranny out already and now is the time to rehab it. In a way, better than putting a new clutch...
As for the injector lines: They are all different lengths, so will vibrate differently. Are they all tied together in at least two places?
I am with Frank...take a laser thermometer and check each cylinder (exhaust). Is there one cold one among all the hot ones?
What does your blow by look...
I am trying to get a shop with a Valspar Automotive paint mix system to produce some 383 green.
They claim they cannot cross reference any of the colour codes I provided from the sticky in this thread.
Does anybody happen to have Valspar specific info that I could share with...
What skinny said. Look up "FDC - fuel density compensator". Bypassing this item eliminates a common source for internal fuel leaks. If yours had it done, it is an improvement, especially for non-cold-war-battlefield daily use.
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