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The way to check is the date code on the back of the block. Pull the doghouse off and look at the block below the passenger side head. If it's after 99 then it's a GEP block.
Mine didn't have the GEP decal and stuff on the valve cover, only know it's GEP from the date (but mine has the 4...
It all depends on what you want to do.
As others have said, the aircon will take a bit, mostly for the startup surge. I have a 3 ton ECU (so 36000 BTU I believe) that I easily run on a 5KW MEP802A. It sits at about half load, or a little less in aircon mode. In heat mode it's 10KW so my 5kw...
Do you know if you have the GM block or the GEP block?
The GEP block is different metalurgy, so it can withstand the heat better than the GM blocks could, for either the 6.2 or 6.5.
I know a few of the guys here are running 2" spacers on the M101A2s in order to fit HMMWV tires under them and don't have any issues, so I don't see why there would be any major issues using an adapter to change the lug pattern.
it's 12V nominal. When operating it will be closer to 14V, when shut off 12.6 is considered a charged battery, and if it's at 12.0 it's considered dead. Voltage has to be higher than the battery in order to make it charge.
if it's an item designed for use in an automobile on 12V, then it...
It should depending on what RPMs it builds it's power at and what design the 15 KVA gen head is.
if it's a 4 pole gen head and the diesel is rated for 1800 RPMs it will most likely work just fine.
not likely that the engine would be rated for 3600 RPMs if it's a diesel multi-cylinder.
Even...
Turbo is only really a necessity if you're planning on the truck weighing 12k lbs and getting shot at. The 6.5 non-turbo has plenty of power. My truck is around 8k lbs right now and has a box on the back sticking up 2 feet over the cab, and no issues with doing 70+ mph if I want.
it's not the stress, it's the heat buildup. The GM blocks are notorious for having block failures at the back cylinders because there isn't enough cooling back there, and the metallurgy isn't good enough to deal with the heat buildup.
Just because it CAN do 65 mph doesn't mean it's a good idea.
https://www.nsncenter.com/Library/PSMAG/PS_688?PageNumber=9 talks a little about cage bolts for the MTV trucks, there are 2 different lengths.
https://www.wbparts.com/rfq/5306-01-479-1492.html gives the bolt specifications you should need to figure it out.
I'm not 100% sure as I haven't checked...
That's the same reason I'm installing aircon into mine right now. Just waiting on a bracket to install a condenser into the fender (stock location for the newer trucks) so I can still change the top on the truck when I want without worrying about hoses and stuff.
Buying from auction is a...
If 4 speed and aircon are must haves, then there isn't really a "cheap" option.
Many of the M1123s will come with the red dot system (the add on aircon system, it's bulky and a little unsightly, but it works). It won't be hooked up and charged, but it will at least be there, and bringing it...
Naval jelly works pretty good on rust, so does OSPHO (phosphoric acid). I use the OSPHO in a spray bottle (wear gloves) and go over it a few times. Either way, you have to wire brush or scrape off the existing rust for it to work properly.
As for the top, not sure. That's pretty rough looking.
Getting your hands a little dirty now when you are prepared for it is a lot less stressful than having to get them really dirty later on when you are somewhere that you aren't prepared for it.
When the trucks were built for the most part they have things to help minimize the corrosion, but once it's out of the factory you get whatever the person thought would be a good idea at the time.
I know for mine I primarily do zinc plated rivnuts for everything, then it doesn't matter so much...
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