Search results

Engine is a GEP that was rebuilt and installed in the truck in 2009, so likely only one decade old. with as much movement as there is, I figure it's probably one of the larger pulleys. Haven't put a dial indicator on any of them (i think I have one somewhere, but haven't used it in 5 or more...

Viofo A129 Pro 4k with GPS. Used the hardwire kit they also sell to enable parking mode. Somehow managed to get it on sale from the Viofo website for 20% off, so was $40 cheaper than amazon, but shipped from Hong Kong. It's wired with the ground to the battery cut off next to the driver's...

replaced the serpentine belt to get rid of belt squeal. Belt is working a lot harder now that the aircon is working. Put the BEOD back on now that the graduation parades are all finished and I'm not driving future soldiers through them. Installing a dash camera wired so it can still record...

So removed the serpentine belt, reinstalled it the opposite direction. The squeal went from being a chirp whenever the belt was under load from the generator or aircon compressor, to being non stop squealing. Belt dressing or soapy water made the sound disappear for a few seconds is all. Belt...

If your hands are that much of an issue, then you might just do the 5 pin connector out of the generator then make an adapter to go to your different things. Daybreak already said it, but I'll say it again because I forgot to read every post before writing this one and only remembered his after...

So finally finished up everything today. Without pulling the tub off the chassis it's kind of hard to get to where things should be run under there, and I think in reality running hard lines would be a lot better (at least underneath) than the rubber lines, bit I did what seemed like a halfway...

Check ebay for them. Quick search showed new HBL5100R9W in the $200-300 range, and used ones down around $100.

only if you put the transfer case in lock. Not really recommended unless you have no other options, but it will drive like that.

I don't remember where I got these from, someone saw a truck on a flatbed at a rest stop and took some pictures. Don't know if it was someone's personal rig being hauled, or just being shipped. (doesn't look properly tied down for transport to me, I would expect another set of chains at the...

you might check the date code on the engine block (if the truck hasn't gone through rebuild) to see when it was made. Would have to be that year or newer. Pull the doghouse and check behind the passenger side cylinder head for the block numbers.

You have to make sure the correct side of the runflat faces out, then there is a little notch cut out where the valve stem enters the rim. Tires don't really matter, but military tends to mount them so that the date code faces out. Makes the tread face one direction on one side of the truck...

If the tires have been balanced but still run rough, then they are most likely out of round. As far as I know there isn't really anything you can do once they are out of round, other than replace them. I know for mine when I got my truck they were badly out of round (had been sitting in one...

Directional thingy for the vent, it rotates.

Why would a truck with 26 miles get a replacement engine? Mine did. Lucky me they replaced the GM block with a GEP. From what I understand they rebuild the HMMWVs every 10 years whether they need it or not, and have a budget for them that they try to use all of whether it needs anything or not.

For comparison, I'm into an M1123 around $24000 right now, but it's all together, licensed, 2 door truck. Had 32 miles when I picked it up. The fact that you have a turbo truck that needs a little work for about half makes me jealous. Sure, you can default and pay the penalty if you're really...

You are correct, the manual does say to use "Lubricant, Runflat" with the rubber runflats (which is a different product than the grease used with the magnesium runflats) The amount the manual says to use is 11 oz, which is 1 full tube, per tire. Cheapest I found it for sale is about $40 per...

oh, and before unbolting the two halves of the wheel, MAKE SURE THE TIRE IS COMPLETELY DEFLATED!! I recommend removing the valve core completely. (if you try separating things when under pressure there is a possibility of explosions and grievous bodily harm and/or death)

I have been told that the special grease is only used with the magnesium run flats, and isn't required for the rubber ones. The run flat compressor tool is readily available on ebay, I think I paid $25 for mine, brand new, including shipping. I've done several with just ratchet straps, long...

So I took a look at my filter. There are no numbers on it anywhere. There is no sticker on it anywhere. Outside of the frame has some arrows for airflow direction, and some words, but nothing to identify a part number for it. It also doesn't show up in the Red Dot parts catalog under filters...

https://www.flashoffroad.com/Maintenance/wheels_tires/tirechange.htm