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The 14V post on the reg should be around 14.4 to ground, again not measured to any other post.

You should be looking from the terminals to ground, not to each other. completely ignore 2A for now, it is an ac signal that tells the PCB the engine is running. 568 is the alt exciter (IGN) terminal, it should be 27-28V or so to ground when running. If you are getting 28.8V at the alt and 26.7V...

I was looking at those type of bore scopes, I bought one and it required me to give the app. access to my media (photos) AND my contact list, this gives the owners of the app access to all your contact information and stored pictures, read selling out all your friends contact information...

It would be helpful to give the wire tag numbers/post ID on the connections you are quoting on the regulator, you seem to be seeing one more post than I remember. You should have much closer to 26V on the IGN/Sense (wire tag 5A) the larger of the two small posts on the reg. Check it again with...

That and the Allied electronics, Heathkit and many others..

Since you have the batteries out after you get them load tested put them in in the opposite position they were originally in, if they check out OK. It looks like the alt is under charging at 26.7V but get the batts tested first then go back and look at the charging voltage. Check the voltages at...

The way they are connected looks fine. Do you have a working trans light and if so is it off when the engine is off?

Test the voltage with the truck running, the voltages you state must be with the truck off. If they are close to even when running you may have a battery issue, if you do not have a battery load tester any auto parts store can test them.

OK, I apologize:(, lazy was the wrong term in this case, I still find trying to navigate a FB business to see what the heck they actually offer a PITA

Still go through the troubleshooting guide, if for example the batteries were hooked up backwards there are some diodes in the alt that could possibly be damaged and could fry the new reg right away, you don't need to search the web as the instructions are pretty straight forward. The whole idea...

Interesting, I went just to see how much shipping would be and it would only allow me to proceed if I had my own shipper account, I have never seen that before when dealing with them.

It was rebuilt, a "new" engine would not have a rebuild tag. Also a new engine would have the GEP decal on the left valve cover, it may or may not be a GEP or parts of a GEP and a GM, again not too important at this point. POST MORE PICTURES!!

I do not understand companies that are too lazy to have a web site, I find Facebook useless as it is difficult to navigate around all the BS posts.

Before you install a new regulator go through the entire troubleshooting guide to make sure there is no problem with the alternator itself, 90% of all 200A problems are the reg but that 10% could cost you big dineros

It looks to have been rebuilt at Ft Hood, undoubtedly would be a 6.5L but may or may not be a GEP, it would take some time and effort to ID all the components like the heads etc as they could have used components from both the GEP and GM engine, but at this point that info does not have allot of...

Disconnect the ign. (sense) lead (wire tag 5A) unless you have the batteries disconnected the others should not be a problem. Most likely all the smoke is already let out and the event is over. Make sure the IGN (sense) lead you remove does not short against anything, tape it up for now.

Welcome to the SS forums!!! That R1 is likely a 3 speed truck, if you want to drive on the streets (to include some highway driving) do yourself a BIG favor and hold out for an A2 truck with the 4 speed overdrive. Just MHO

Left rear and top of engine block, between the oil pump drive and the #7 intake runner. If it is a turbo motor it will have a stainless steel hose attached to the block with the sending unit on the end of the hose.

I would suspect 1qt/1000mi is not excessive for a Melton engine. although not having a CDR valve certainly could cause an increase in oil consumption.

All of us old folks grew up "pumping" the brakes under limited traction conditions, then they came out with ABS which can be confused by pumping the brakes so they then taught everyone not to pump the brakes. If you have lost traction and are sliding usually the best thing is to get the hell off...