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In the case of K19, you would jumper the 24V from the top center pin 30 to the pin directly below it, 87A(Shown in yellow below). With a jumper you can measure that 24v is actually being applied to pin 87A in the K19 socket. Using a jumper also checks wether the modular panel...

there is no 87B, only 87 and 87A. When de-energized, pin 30 connects to pin 87A. When the relay coil is powered the internal contacts switch, opening the contact between 30-87A and closing the connection between 30 and 87. Pin 85 and 86 are the coil connections. In the case of this truck...

@ramdough Hey, you asked for this about a year ago:. Just call me speedy:)

Ok, you have 24V on pin 86 With ignition on? That should only happen when the start inhibit button is pressed… if it is hot all the time, it would energize K19 as soon as ign is turned on, and disconnect power to the run solenoid/TL28… And of course K19 is a 5 pin relay right?

The start inhibit switch powers the coil of K19. When K19 energizes, it disconnects power to wire 54 down to the run solenoid and applies it to its own coil to latch in the on/start inhibit position untill you shut off the ign switch. when you shutoff ign, This resets relay K19 to the...

Voltage is not considered good until it is tested under load. Resistance resists current flow NOT voltage. A bad/high resistance connection, like a kink in a garden hose, will still pass full voltage/pressure to the end of the wire/hose until you try and pull current thru it/flow water. Then...

Is that 10V when it is connected to the run solenoid, or with TL28 disconnected?

What in the name of holy hotcakes is this?

Ok, TL66 should not even be in the mix. It says not used in the A0 schematic, and the other pin on P201 runs to the idiot light panel, but is not shown being attached to any idiot light. If it was intended to drive a light, TL66 may have been intended to be connected to ground(TL29) to...

Oh darn... you can probably glue it... at least it works:)

On a brighter note, the wire down to TL35 at the alt probably has a good circuit:)

Oh yea there is, good catch. I didn’t see that, despite it being blatantly obvious in the pics:) Grounding that TL35 to the alternator ground could cause that, along with over-fusing CB77 at some point… Pretty easy to repair with an external wire from CB77 socket to relay socket 30 on the...

Does that white wire on the regulator have any numbers stamped on it? that might be able to give you an idea where it runs to. On the A1 they installed a LBCD to disconnect the battery, but you do not appear to have that equipment(box behind batteries with manual and remote disconnect...

Ok, you most definitely have some other hack jobs. K11 does indeed provide the power to the start button(pin 30-87 when energized) to energize the starter, and K11 must be energized to allow the starter to function. There is a backup circuit on the ground side that insures K11 stays energized...

When the oil pressure sw hits 15 psi, it deenergizes K11 which powers the regulator thru its de-energized contacts 30-87A and brings the alt online AFTER the engine is running. K11 should energize(led on) with the oil idiot light in the dash and de-energize when oil light goes out. On the A1s...

No big trucks, but I have driven smaller trucks with it. It worked OK. Search utube for “Toyota crawl control” I have a design for a fairly simple per-axle on-demands system Kicking around in my head. My goal is something that works a little like Toyota's crawl control. The stumbling block...

Yup, less if you have your own big tools and talents...

Exactly!

I am thinking you should see a check light briefly opon powerup. It Not being there is probably not a good thing...

Yep, and most of those large rotary switches use a cam or ramp to actuate a large bussbar and push it against the contacts. If I read your initial post, you thought it was off and rotated it to on, when in actuality it was on and you rotated it to off. What I think may have happened is that...