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The ports on the valve and cylinders are all SAE-4. There is a SAE-4 - JIC-4 adapter in each port to adapt to the JIC-4 hose ends. You can get some SAE plugs, disconnect the hoses, remove the dapters and install plugs at the valve and cylinders...

I bet there is enough restriction somewhere, or there is leakage in the valve or pump or even around the rod end of the cylinder and it cannot pull enough vacuum to suck fluid thru the pump into the rod end of the lift cylinder as the cab lowers. Pretty common, hydraulic seals are great at...

Well if you are not selecting the kneeling system on the. valve, there should be no flow there, so that speaks to a control valve issue. Unless using the hand pump, its output checkvalve should halt a y flow back.into the hand pump, but the shaft seal still should not be leaking. If you are...

Like I mentioned above, you must feed them enough air to hold the wheel valves open, but less than the current tire pressure to get them to dump. A good way to do this is disconnect the output line from the PCU and connect an air pressure regulator and a source of compressed air. Whatever you...

All the axles are plumbed together. There is a dump valve for each axle that connects to each hub/wheel. The line out of the PCU runs down to a T connection right behind the transmission on the passenger side. One leg of the T runs forward to the front axle dump valve(right side of trans)...

Thats because your pivots or front bushings have an issue. If everything it tight and right, they go up and down square on one cylinder…

No they do not, single lift cylinder passenger side ~15” of stroke… the steering box occupies that space on the drivers side…

On what truck?

Uuuh where are you getting 50”? 16 + 18 = 34”… and I am pretty sure the cab lift is only 15” of stroke, so I uses 33” of stroke to come up with 26cu/in of rod displacement…

Power packer made a bi-directional version of that pump, with a directional control valve to the right of the pump handle. Add to that a two-way diverter and some flow control and you can also do away with that large manifold valve Just like I did. In the end I didn't like the small volume of...

Hmmm. Something might be up with that calculation. Area is pi X R squared, so .5 X .5 X 3.1416 = .7854 sq/in for a 1” rod cross sectional area. That X 33” stroke = ~26 cu/in total displacement for that extended rod length. 35cu/in is plenty for both, but in reality, how often do you...

The 1” rod diameter does not really displace that much fluid. For instance when you lift the cab you send .19 gal to the cylinder and because of the rod, it only returns .14 gal to the reservoir. The difference being around .05gal. The hand pump reservoir ID is ~3.75 X 3.75 X 3.25, or 45...

Then that is probably S40, a 35F thermal snap switch. Above 35f coolant temp it disables ether control…

All of the lighting, ~32A on a M1079, ~28A on a 1078. On the A0, it provides the power for the ign switch and VIM(neutral start), which controls 24v ign power. On the very early A0, the transmissions needed 12 and 24, somewhere in the late 90’s Alison made them either-or, and later versions in...

if that part in the pic is identified as a thermal resistor, it is probably not for the ether system. On the 3116 the ether system uses a thermal switch(35F) in the coolant bypass pipe in front of the engine. On the early A1 like many early EFI systems, it has 2 temp sensors(thermistors)...

And H where the 24v is supplied from, yes…

We loose a lot out of the dual volt running 60 of its 100A @12v(current limitations in the windings). With both legs Fully loaded by lighting and depleted batts, it is only capable of ~1950watts. 100A @ 24V is 2400W, so single voltage has ~19% more output available. if you are still running...

What Guruman said, not difficult at all. Ground 12 and 24v connections. It takes whatever is on 24v and outputs exactly 1/2 of that on the 12v lead. You can either connect it as a battery balancer, or use the 12v output standalone like any other 24-12 converter. I am still running a 100A...

What a concept:) yea Acella appears to have been reserving their products and services for the folks who buy their trucks… an alternator mount for a cat really isn't rocket surgery...

Yes, but wired this way it is a little more intuitive. 1. Turn on power switch. In my case this also powers the digital air gauge. 2. Select inflate 3. Momentarily press action switch to pressurize the system. 4. Read tire pressure on air gauge. From this configuration you can inflate or...