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You have to make sure it's a grade 12.9 metric bolt. If it's a lesser grade then it won't take that much force. http://www.dansmc.com/torque_chart.htm If it's still breaking then I'd get my torque wrench calibrated. (I know the snap on truck around here has a torque wrench testing tool for...

According to first post, there is power at the convenience outlets, so that would indicate that it is producing power, just not getting to the lugs.

Don't worry about it, we all tend to overlook the really obvious stuff. Even the experts here got you onto page two without asking if you checked it, because we all just make assumptions about things like that.

Putting a block off plate would actually defeat the purpose of the air pressure then, as soon as pressure built up behind the valve, there would be nothing to hold it in place. Once you have the head off, my suggestion would be find an automotive machine shop and have them check everything...

I'll also agree, sounds like a shorted gen head. You should NEVER see sparks from the generator assembly. Very unlikely you'll be able to fix it if it's saying overload, and I really don't want to get your hopes up. There is the VERY slight possibility it's a single wire that is shorting...

If that much air compressor can't keep up with the leak, I think best bet is to bite the bullet and pull the head for a better look. You'll want to make sure nothing got past the valve and damaged the piston or cylinder wall at minimum, piston damage won't show up during a leakdown test but can...

Thanks for that. I definitely found it a bit frustrating, one of the plugs I bought I ended up damaging during disassembly to find the pin contact color codes. If I didn't have the plug in front of me I seriously doubt I'd have found any of this info. Couldn't find anything with that exact...

Doesn't a request like this pop up every 6 months to a year, and nothing has ever come out of it because they finally realize it isn't cost effective, and there just isn't a big enough market?

So last night I ordered 4 of the contact pins and 4 reducer bushings through the Mouser website. I paid for 2 day fedex freight. I'm west coast, so to me this says, if they hurry up the order, I should get it by end of day Friday. This morning got an email with the shipping notification, they...

Yes, it is in the correct series of plugs, but it is not the correct plug. I have already linked the correct plug in my original post. the -14 at the end of the part number is the diameter in mm. The correct plug ends in 32-1p, so 32mm across with insert #1. Both the one you linked and the...

I already found all the part numbers I was looking for, this thread was to share them on here for anyone else that might be looking for them, as they aren't the easiest thing to find.

Thanks, but no, that is not it. (that's a tiny connector, and only $7. The actual connector is about $200 for everything) I listed all the part numbers up in my original post that I was able to figure out. The plug itself is one, the cable retainer was another. After that was replacement pin...

Here is a picture of the plug location in the truck. Rear passenger footwell, behind the battery box.

Okay, so here is the old slave cable plug next to the cable end I am talking about. Hopefully side by side it shows how different they are. More pins, different pin placement, and slip fit vs threaded retainer.

This was NOT about slave cables. This is about the plug for the umbilical that goes to any type of shelter or body installed in the back of the HMMWV. It took me a little while of searching just to find the right terms to bring up the connector I found, it's not a "Nato" standard like the slave...

No, I was just sharing what I found concerning the plug that attaches to the umbilical that is installed in some of the trucks. I know I've spent hours finding the numbers for what I needed, then actually finding sources for them. I lucked out and found the connector itself on ebay for cheap...

This isn't a slave cable. This one goes out the back of the battery box into the cargo area for things like commo shelters and whatnot to be plugged in, instead of having to be hardwired to the batteries. Here is what the old slave cables look like for anyone that doesn't know. Larger...

(edited) To clear up the confusion, this post is me trying to share the part numbers I found related to the umbilical cable plug in the rear passenger footwell of the heavy variant HMMWVs (M1097, M1123) for anyone that might be looking for them. I found part numbers, and listed them below, as...

It's even more when the unit you buy had something heavy that either ran into it or fell onto it from the side so the entire thing looks twisted. I took it apart and hammered a few things somewhat back into shape. Exhaust comes out the hole and the doors close enough to latch, so I called it a...

Battery should be at least 12.6V to be considered charged. Anything below that needs charged before testing. If the batteries are in good shape the unit can still be started down to about 12.3V each, but they are considered nearly dead at that point, so not a good idea to do it if you don't...