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The easiest way is to find a couple pieces of something 5/8" in dia. to plug the two hoses, just pop the hoses off the heater core fittings, put the plugs in and tighten the clamps back up. It is a little tight to get a piece of 5/8" hose in and circle back to the heater valve from the hard line...

There should not be a significant difference, you still could have other issues like TPS calibration. I would think if you were not shifting into 3rd or 4th you may have a code now, have you read the codes after test driving?

Look around first, you can get the same kit cheaper elsewhere...

Yes but an ohm meter will confirm, according to the standard wire list wire number 810 is part of a traverse/elevation system so I am confused at why you are seeing that number.

To work correctly the wires (75) need to be wired to the light switch, there should be matching number 75 harness wires by the switch. 75A and 75B again does not matter which way the brake switch numbers 75 wires are connected.

IIRC the two individual wires connect ether way to the brake light circuit, the plug with two wires is for the 4L80 controller The brake light wires close (short) when the brake pedal is depressed the 4L80 switch open when the brake pedal is depressed. The brake light switch wires are both...

Unfortunately you have just scratched the surface of how difficult it is to work on a HMMWV. I do not see that box referenced to a HMMWV, not all H1 Hummer parts fit the military trucks, it might but you need to double check before spending money. And like you said it might be a hose.....

It looks like that was a good number that is no longer available, I have contacted Cardone to clarify.

I found a cross reference to a Cardone 27-7595 EDIT, that was not the right number at Summit Sorry, that number does not look good on the Cordone site, it was crossed referenced on a GP site. Back to the drawing board......

That would be plus or minus 1.5875MM

I measure 215.42375 Cm :)

You need to clean the area and actually discover where the leak is coming from, we can't tell you from a picture where it is leaking, could be a hose, a steering box or something else entirely. The steering box is wet but that does not mean that is what is leaking or not. BTW the two hoses...

Rain water could have gotten in through the damaged dipstick tube or some other route, it does not take much to taint the color. Just keep an eye on the new oil.

If it were me I would not take it for a test drive or run it much at all until you get the turbo replaced or fixed, if that compressor wheel is out of balance and comes apart then you have shrapnel going into your cylinders, a little paranoid? maybe:cool:

Those things are pretty much bullet proof, as Coug eluded to are you sure you are buying the genuine article, there are tons of aftermarket stuff that look pretty dang real. The only other obvious thing would be if your alt. was grossly overcharging, but I'm sure you would notice if it was that bad.

No

Could it be your tires are 15-20 years old?

https://www.easternsurplus.net/PartDetails/5674/HM-817-Transmission-Control-Module-Eprom-1999-HMMWV

I have the numbers for the rear I think, might take a couple days, I conversed with Bilstein and they said those were European numbers and useless to them

Not to mention burns, I got a wrist watch caught between a battery terminal on the back of an alternator and a manifold back in the 70s, looked like a bulldozer had walked around my wrist for a decade or so. o_O