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As CAMO said that is an old very outdated system, you will need a new engine harness and ether a smart start or CAMO box. Take a picture of the "sqaure" connectors you are talking about at the glow plugs, the only thing I can think of is the civy setup with spade terminals.

You need to back up on that wire #350 to the TCM, as you stated there should be a 5V reference on that lead, check pin d (with underscore) wire # 350A at J1 at the TCM case, if you do not have 5V there then bust open the case and inspect the TCM and connections for water intrusion.

I took a 120 mile jog this morning to Karnes City and back to pick up a Craigs list purchase. I figured 50 deg would be a little uncomfortable in the DuraVee with no doors or back wall so I took the Detroit, seeing as it was veterans day and all. That decision turned out to be a good one as it...

Belated WELCOME to the SS forums.

The wait light has a #27 (F) wire, all #27 wires are instrument feed so yes it will be hot any time the run switch is on and the PCB grounds the other lead to turn on the light.

And reverse.

I think that is simply an omission, there are errors in some TMs

See if you have a good flow from the fuel filter drain, it does sound like fuel starvation, less likely but also possible a return problem.

All you should need is power to the TCM and a connected and working light, the transmission could be unplugged for all the TCM would care at that point. It would be handy if you had an LED test light like this one, it shows green for "correct" polarity but more important it also lights up red...

You need to find the reason you have no light before worrying about any sensors or trying to get codes.

You should get a trans light when the run switch is put in run but the engine not running. If you don't it is ether no power to the TCM, a bad trans light/wiring to the light or a bad TCM, that has nothing to do with any of the sensors. There are two sources of power to the TCM one continuous...

You might also try unplugging the cold advance wire (the wire at a 45 deg angle on the rear of the IP housing) The cold advance works by restricting the fuel flow out of the housing (return) thus raising the pressure in the housing causing the timing to advance.

Are you only running it at idle? what I mean does it run OK at half or full throttle? That is called "hunting" and can be an issue with the IP but if you are only running it at idle it could be fuel starvation. EDIT, or possibly a fuel return restriction.

The fan is ether on or off, no "partial" mode, how do you know it is partially engaging? If it is the fan clutch will soon burn up.

I was fortunate to get to visit that wall when it was in S TX.

I would go ahead and wire up the switch, easier for testing than hooking up a jumper every time you test

Section 12 has the docs you need to troubleshoot the winch.

I just put the DuraVee a 93 M998 up on the lift to install a front mount 12K MileMarker hydraulic winch on a modified rear mount and got a good look around. As the TM states the rear bolts are 3/4-10X4.75" so you will need to get some 5" bolts as there just would not be enough threads out of the...

There is also a thermal switch on the green line that could be bad.