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The pictorial does not match the schematic (third attachment), the pictorial shows the coils for the solenoids in parallel, the schematic shows them in series (12V coils) If it is wired as in the picture make sure you have ground wires going to both the #1 and #4 solenoids second small...

Everyone that owns a Humvee would benefit by reading the operator TM. https://image.nsnlookup.com/equipment-intelligence/land/hmmwv/technical-manual/tm-9-2320-280-10/tm-9-2320-280-10.pdf One more thing I love about the DuraVee, computerized shift on the fly transfer case ;)

Are you looking for that body panel?

Unfortunately you cannot replace just the heater core without removing the housing, in fact in service there is only a complete housing with core, the core itself is not replaced on its own. The bad part is you will likely tear some of the old heater vent hoses in the process as they are...

Oh yes, I forgot. Do not tighten any suspension bushing bolt until the entire weight is back on the suspension, tightening the bolts when the suspension is hanging free is a mistake, it puts the bushings in a bind under normal loading which will make the ride much stiffer and drastically shorten...

All the "programming" is in the EPROM, you can try switching in your original one, if there is something wrong with it you will get a DTC-51

There is no user programming for that TCM I could be a wiring issue on #83 or the old TCM fried the solenoid The #85 could also be a wiring issue, as bad sensor or the transmission is slipping. Also check to see if there is any fluid in the main harness connector at the trans. Otherwise the...

Also you should run a big ground cable from the winch to ether the shunt in the battery box or the engine block/starter ground stud. The frame in not normally intentionally grounded, if you use the frame for a ground without addressing that you will pass all the winch current though the parking...

Then you drill holes in the air lift brackets if they are not already there.

I just drive the old bolt out with a new one and put the nut on the rear, always on the lift so I don't know if that makes any difference but they drive out fairly easily. The TM calls for a 3/4-10X4.75" of course grade 8 or better. EDIT, I just measured the ones I have in stock for that purpose...

Welcome to the SS forums!

Or the kit 57K0268, this kit has all the tools from the 0267 kit plus much more, actually I wish I had purchased this kit, even though I already had the engine sling which is a God send for removing engines. Engine Lifting Sling DRF 561 Belt Tension Gauge Runflat Compressor DRF 2688 Drive...

IMHO anyone with a HMMWV should buy the HMMWV tool kit 57K0267, it includes a belt tension gauge along with many of the tools necessary to correctly maintain the vehicle, in the overall view of the HMMWV world they are affordable...

If you buy a truck from a "dealer" it should be a different process than getting a truck from GP and waiting on an SF-97

If you had a rear evap (4 man) it would have a second condenser in the left fender.

Should be removed, you will need some 3/8 and some 5/16 line

Look closely at the other side that is complete, it should be mounted more or less the same way only one side has shorter lines. Did you acquire the correct lines or still trying to jury rig something? Here is another shot of the brake lines, it is kinda backwards as #9 is the left side line and...

As stated above remove the fitting and re-install it after making sure it is clean, no seals but make SURE you back up the black side with a wrench both removing and installing the fitting or you can twist/break the hard line going into the cooler.

That is supposed to swivel, there should be a vent line attached but it would not be sucking air there.

Welcome to the SS forums!