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I had some time this morning so I cut the holes for the condensers and mounted the grills.
I understand the factory installs only have the two holes close together used for footman loops on top but it only cost me about $.75 a side to add the screws and rivnuts.
What RWH is saying without taking the time to explain is that very few keyed switches and certainly the ones for sale on the popular web sites will not take the load presented by a HMMWV. They are very problematic in most cases and in some cases will cause catastrophic failures including fires
Antifreeze sounds like a possible catastrophic failure of some type, like a rod came loose and busted the block, was the cooling system full?
I would be tempted to drop the pan and have a look see, also inspect the sides of the block carefully, unfortunately antifreeze in the oil is always bad...
Is the oil over full? you just need to let a little oil out of the pan to see if any water is in there.
It is also possible the IP is seized, you may want to pull the top off the IP and see if there is any sign of water, but I suspect you would get a little movement at the front pulley.
If the...
I think on that engine you can take a 1" open end and grab the "spokes" on the front pulley. always try to turn the engine in a clockwise direction looking at the front of the engine.
Was the intake filter pipes intact?
Crossed fingers that it is just a bad starter or something else...
You need to read the resistance, it should be around 2.5 ohms, would look like continuity on ether a meter or a test lamp.
The solenoid certainly could be shorted though.
What trigger are you talking about?
You can connect the batteries without the PCB connected and run a test wire from the solenoid where wire #74 was connected and try touching it to the hot terminal wear a face shield and gloves
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